Jump to content
SAU Community

Random Stalling?

nizmo_freek
 Share

Recommended Posts

god's rx Contributor

god's rx

Posted
Posted

my R32 would do this wen i first got it n thats cos the BOV was shite n was openin under extremely small loads, thus lack of air n the car would stall.

f**kin scary wen it stalls at 50-60 and losing power steering tryin to turn...

so +1 for checkin BOV

nizmo_freek Experienced

nizmo_freek

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
changed your sparkies lately. Disconnect the 02 sensor plug and see if it still happens.

Could also be a sticking Auxillary air valve.

Plugs are ngk bcpr6es and have done about 8000kms, will check them over just incase

Will unlpugg 02 sensor tonight and see what happens.

Edited by nizmo_freek
nizmo_freek Experienced

nizmo_freek

Posted
  • Author
Posted
my R32 would do this wen i first got it n thats cos the BOV was shite n was openin under extremely small loads, thus lack of air n the car would stall.

f**kin scary wen it stalls at 50-60 and losing power steering tryin to turn...

so +1 for checkin BOV

The bov is the stock unit, so i dont see how that could cause the problem, unless the spring has somehow lost its tension?

nizmo_freek Experienced

nizmo_freek

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just unplugged the 02 sensor and went for a drive, no change at all, also after the car stalls then i restart it (let the clutch out while im rolling) ,if i let the car sit there idling while still rolling the revs fluctuate around 1200rpm-1500rpm then after a little while the car will all of a sudden start idling normal at about 700-800rpm which is very strange, seem like a idle valve problem to me, may clean the aac valve on the weekend (have already cleaned it ages ago) and see if i changes anything (somehow i dont think it will), the last resort will be to take it to nissan lol

  • 3 months later...
4drlvr Proficient

4drlvr

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Im having this problem too? So far ive checked the BOV(Tried another pair), checked the cooler piping as well.

Mine seems to do it wen the engine is at running temp. Doesnt do it when its cold. Im running stock comp, pods and a Cooler.

Can be very annoying espically if your to hit the brakes all of a sudden to slow down the car turns off???? Weird....

Have also tried resetting the ecu.

Will Check the TPS and CAS Tonight and see what it does.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...