Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Theres a problem with my brakes in my Skyline, which i bought 2 weeks ago. 1st week of running it was fine, but now at slow speeds the breaks make a very loud screeching sound. I will hopefully be able to take it to the ppl who had a look at the car before sale to make sure everything is OK. Does anybody know what the problem could be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177990-breaks-problem/
Share on other sites

most probably just worn pads. The screeching noise is there by design to advise you the pads need changing. If your thinking about upgrading your rotors ( say to slotted ) now is an idea time to change them , as your going to need to remove the calipers to put the pads in

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177990-breaks-problem/#findComment-3248566
Share on other sites

Hmm i had the same problem with my old 33, i put bendix ultimates in they were so noisy, mechanics could not quite them down, so i had to change them to a softer compound.

Thanks. hmm that must be the problem then, so a softer compound i take it is working fine then?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177990-breaks-problem/#findComment-3249286
Share on other sites

Softer compounds will also generate shitloads of dust for your rims. Sometimes shit (such as tiny stones etc) get in between your rotors and pads which will also generate noise, just give it a quick clean with a big pressure hose or something. It helped on my brothers rexie.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177990-breaks-problem/#findComment-3249893
Share on other sites

Softer compounds will also generate shitloads of dust for your rims. Sometimes shit (such as tiny stones etc) get in between your rotors and pads which will also generate noise, just give it a quick clean with a big pressure hose or something. It helped on my brothers rexie.

Ultimates are dusty as anything...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177990-breaks-problem/#findComment-3250344
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the responses guys..

The pads are new, so its not due to any wear/tear, just that they are racing pads with a hard compound. I could get the softer compound, yet it will get dusty as ppl have pointed out, so yeh.

I decided to give it to the mechanics, they said they will sand it and apply some goo and said that it should reduce the noise, yet there is no guarentee of it not reccuring in the future.

Anyways im glad to know that it is a common occurance and that there is nothing wrong with the brakes. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177990-breaks-problem/#findComment-3251004
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the responses guys..

The pads are new, so its not due to any wear/tear, just that they are racing pads with a hard compound. I could get the softer compound, yet it will get dusty as ppl have pointed out, so yeh.

I decided to give it to the mechanics, they said they will sand it and apply some goo and said that it should reduce the noise, yet there is no guarentee of it not reccuring in the future.

Anyways im glad to know that it is a common occurance and that there is nothing wrong with the brakes. :P

Good luck hope you sort it out. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177990-breaks-problem/#findComment-3251182
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...