Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey mate,

Was reading your thread about your car, do u have the guys number that hooked his scanner up to your 35? mine has sat at the workshop for the last two months as it keeps blowing coil packs and no ones scan tools will talk to the car.

Any help would be much apprecated.

Cheers

John

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im using the auto enginuity (www.autoenginuity.com) pc based scanner, unfortunately they only told me that JDM cars dont run the OBD-ii interface, do u know for sure the one ur buying will work with the 35's?

The pins dont seem to be in the same place as the cable i purchased im wondering if this is the only difference?

Sorry forgot to add that i have been told that nissan consult will also not work with the 35's, again im only going on what ive been told not facts...

Im really stuck for ideas at the moment.. i know for sure that its not the wiring, if the ecu has failed in some way im also not sure what my next course of action should be other then going a full stand alone ecu which i really dont want to do.

Im using the auto enginuity (www.autoenginuity.com) pc based scanner, unfortunately they only told me that JDM cars dont run the OBD-ii interface, do u know for sure the one ur buying will work with the 35's?

The pins dont seem to be in the same place as the cable i purchased im wondering if this is the only difference?

they do run OBD2. do you have a pinout of yours. the can lines are on pins 3&6. throw the right commands up those and you have data.

I'm looking at the USDM version with the G35 loaded on it.

have you tried the local dealership yet?

how is it killing them?

Alrighty, Looking at the plug on the car pins 1,2,3,4,5,6 are occupied as well as 9 and 10, The cable i got from auto enginuity supposed to be OBD-ii pins 2,4,6,7 and 10,14,15,16 are occupied? the auto enginuity product is supposed to be can compatible.

The car kept melting no. 2 coil pack intermitently until the last time where no. 2 went first and on the way to the workshop it melted the other 5 all in one go...

Edited by NA_R33

John,

Quite concerning; please let us know how you get on. How on earth did this happen? Is the car standard?

I can only imagine what you are going through. Have you swapped the ECU with another standard one to test that? Have you tried the 350z forums at all, maybe thy might be able to give you a few tips?

Best of luck!

Mate its an intemitent problem that doesnt occur under similar sircumstances, first on went after a 30 min drive, very very sedate driving, second one went 20 mins after installation just after i gave it a stab in 1st and backed off, By this stage we gave the ignition loom its own power and earth, 3rd one lasted over a week, including a weekend at the skidpan then driving normally it decided to die, drivin it to the workshop the remaining 5 went...

Alrighty, Looking at the plug on the car pins 1,2,3,4,5,6 are occupied as well as 9 and 10, The cable i got from auto enginuity supposed to be OBD-ii pins 2,4,6,7 and 10,14,15,16 are occupied? the auto enginuity product is supposed to be can compatible.

The car kept melting no. 2 coil pack intermitently until the last time where no. 2 went first and on the way to the workshop it melted the other 5 all in one go...

ok you are dropping a CAN line. no go on that front. I'm going to check a 350z when I go past nissan but the last 300gt I pulled down that was the layout. I'll stick my head in the 350GT (04 spec) int eh work shop and get the pinning on it as well. should be 3&6 though.

dumb question - resistor pack (can't think of the correct name.) on the coil supply side. shorted ? bad?

NA, I bought that scanner too. Returned now. I can't believe they sold it to you even after all the shit they put me through. I can tell you pretty much all about it. PM me any questions you may have.

Ok i tested the auto enginuity product on my dads 03 comodore ss and mums '03 merc, both worked.

With regards to the obd pin outs the us spec '03 wiring diagrams give me pin 8 as ignition, pin 16 as constant, pin 7 as data line, and pin 5 and 4 as earths. I was under the impression CAN systems needed 2 data lines?

Ok i tested the auto enginuity product on my dads 03 comodore ss and mums '03 merc, both worked.

With regards to the obd pin outs the us spec '03 wiring diagrams give me pin 8 as ignition, pin 16 as constant, pin 7 as data line, and pin 5 and 4 as earths. I was under the impression CAN systems needed 2 data lines?

they do: can H & L.

Thanks for all the help guys much appreciated.

Last night i made some progress after a bit more research i got the auto enginuity product to work using the ISO-9141-2 protocol. While doing so the car started beeping the horn for varying periods of time when planes flew over the work shop. Which got me thinking i have some sort of wiring problem.

It also threw the variable cam timing solenoide error codes, These are also powered by the same relay the coil packs are in the IPDM (intelligent power distribution module). Upon removing that from the car is seems it had been drowned at some stage in its life with a heap of corrosion across the terminals on some of the small solid state relays, which would have been feeding a positive current into the negative trigger of the ECU that tells IPDM to pretty much power up the whole car, this combined with the loose earth terminal im pretty sure was my problem. So ive ordered another set of standard coils which should be here next week.

Fingers crossed its fixed, Thanks again to everyone that helped with this especially Chris, i was begining to loose hope.

Thanks for all the help guys much appreciated.

Last night i made some progress after a bit more research i got the auto enginuity product to work using the ISO-9141-2 protocol. While doing so the car started beeping the horn for varying periods of time when planes flew over the work shop. Which got me thinking i have some sort of wiring problem.

It also threw the variable cam timing solenoide error codes, These are also powered by the same relay the coil packs are in the IPDM (intelligent power distribution module). Upon removing that from the car is seems it had been drowned at some stage in its life with a heap of corrosion across the terminals on some of the small solid state relays, which would have been feeding a positive current into the negative trigger of the ECU that tells IPDM to pretty much power up the whole car, this combined with the loose earth terminal im pretty sure was my problem. So ive ordered another set of standard coils which should be here next week.

Fingers crossed its fixed, Thanks again to everyone that helped with this especially Chris, i was begining to loose hope.

Cheers Warren, I believe there are no coincidences and everything we found last night is related in some way, so now its just a wait for coil packs, i managed to get a set of 6 from the states for just under 400 AUD delivered rather than the usual 200 each from nissan aus, they should hopefully be here next week, its been so long it will be like having a new car again :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not the first person that's said that about this car lol. A Touring wagon GT in Spark yellow mica would be the dog's danglies 😆 I will keep an eye out for a future purchase for sure. The seats are almost like the OEM Recaros... electric adjustment for fore/aft and tilt movements except reclining.   
    • Yes!! I love these! It's a shame its not the wagon though!   Thank everything that's holy that it doesn't have the interior of the Aussie delivered ones. Those seats are so much nicer.  
    • I'm both sorry and thankful that you do that. 
    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
×
×
  • Create New...