Jump to content
SAU Community

Trust Pully Kit - R33 Gt-r

rb4door

By rb4door,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

rb4door Contributor

rb4door

Posted
Posted (edited)

Heya guys,

I recently had a GReddy Pully Kit fitted to my R33 GT-R.

After a week of being on the road, the belt for the power steering pump pully has slipped what I would say is approx 1/4 of the belt width off of the pully.

This is quite concerning and I obviously want to get it fixed.

Can anyone shed any light as to how this has happened?

A few things I will clarify so it doesnt need to be asked:

Pully kit is definately BCNR33 RB26DETT - I bought the parts myself, got the original box, original instructions - everything is BCNR33 RB26DETT with Mitsubishi Alternator pully variant

Pully kit is definately installed the correct way around - exactly like the picture shows in the instruction book.

It was installed by a "performance" workshop while I was doing the timing belt and water pump at the same time.

Some pics:

P7300007.JPG

P7300002.JPG

P7300001.JPG

P7300004.JPG

I noticed when I first saw the pully kit installed that belt was at an odd angle, but stupidly I didnt think much about it at the time.

The belt in its "off" position now appears to be dead square with the engine, so where the belt is now appears to be exactly where it should be. Its just the pully doesnt match its position!

What I dont know is if the installer has missed putting something on, or if it does run at an odd angle and it requires a bucketload of tension to put on it during the installation. I will be speaking to the installer this week to ask, but I dont know how much tension was put on when it was done.

Does anyone know if its as simple as a part has been missed when installed?

The washer and bolt after the pully match perfectly to the end of the thread for the pump, so I cannot work out what is wrong here, unless Trust have given me the wrong part in the kit?

Cheers for any help anyone can give...

Edited by rb4door
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178731-trust-pully-kit-r33-gt-r/
Share on other sites
rb4door Contributor

rb4door

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I thought this too, however its a dead match for the OEM pully taken off, and the offset of the pully appears perfect so it misses the High Pressure line of the pump coming over the front of it, and also sits pefectly over another bolt behind it and infront of the face of the pump :thumbsup:

700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted

Hitachi also made an alternator for the BCNR33...how did you check that Mitsubishi built it.

http://www.nengun.com/trust-greddy/pulley-kit.

Could the mechanic have got the pulleys mixed up?Is this possible? (Does this change anything?)

Could the mechanic have installed the pulleys back to front (Does this change anything?)

Could the mechanic forget a spacer?

Looks to me though that pulley in question has been installed back to front.

That bolt sticking out should be flush inside the pully

My 2c

NXTIME Grand Master

NXTIME

Posted
Posted

I have this same problem. But mine is on an R32. p/s pump pulley sits a few mm too far in and hence the belt comes off and eventually snaps/shreds. I will be fitting a spacer to rectify the problem; or the pulley could be on the wrong way around...will get to inspect mine later and see if this is true.

rb4door Contributor

rb4door

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah the Hitachi alternator was Series 1 GT-R, possibly Series 2.

I have a Series 3 - with a Mitsubishi alternator. That pully is fine on the alternator, as is the waterpump pully.

Yeah one other mechanic from a GT-R garage made the same comment - that the pully is on back to front.

But the GReddy logo is only on the front of them. Instruction book also shows facing outwards.

Wouldnt think the GReddy logo would face forwards on the other two pully's and not for the power steering pully?

Either way, I think i'm going to have to pull it off on the weekend and try and sus out if it will fit on the other way round. If that doesnt work i'm hoping the old one will fit back on ok.

I'll really be in the poo if the original one does the same thing once fitted!

rb4door Contributor

rb4door

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I have this same problem. But mine is on an R32. p/s pump pulley sits a few mm too far in and hence the belt comes off and eventually snaps/shreds. I will be fitting a spacer to rectify the problem; or the pulley could be on the wrong way around...will get to inspect mine later and see if this is true.

thanks for the reply mate....

very interesting.

Do we have them fitted wrong or is Trust wrong?

Trust is always on the money with their parts - I just cant understand how these could be the wrong fit.

It seriously does not look like it will fit the other way around though...

PurpleR32 Experienced

PurpleR32

Posted
Posted
I have this same problem. But mine is on an R32. p/s pump pulley sits a few mm too far in and hence the belt comes off and eventually snaps/shreds. I will be fitting a spacer to rectify the problem; or the pulley could be on the wrong way around...will get to inspect mine later and see if this is true.

I had the exact same problem. Shredded p/s belts are not cool....especially if somehow they get wrapped around the clutch fan. Turns out I was sent an R33 GTR pully kit instead of an R32 one. Apparently the P/S pully needs a washer or two to push it out a millimeter or two. Driving a R32 GTR with no power steering really sux the kak!!

NXTIME Grand Master

NXTIME

Posted
Posted

The Japanese stuff in kit form is unbeatable for pecision, completeness, quality, fitment etc etc. I have seen many bolt-on kits such as a Trust/GReddy intercooler kit that was a perfect fit kit with every nut, bolt, clamp, custom bracket, spacers, etc. Pity these facets don't apply here :) It is an easy fix though. ;)

RPMGTR Community Regular

RPMGTR

Posted
Posted

The problem is caused by the harmonic balancer. Despite the car being a R33, you have a R32 balancer on there.

Only real difference is a fatter lip seperating the p/s drive pulley from alt and a/c drive pulleys, making the 32 p/s drive pulley sit forward compared to 33.

So, just space the pulley on the p/s pump forward a little, until it lines up correctly.

cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...