Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all. Slightly interested in importing a stagea sometime in the future. Just wondering how many K's yours have done and if they start to slowly fail over a certain distance? Would one that has done over 100,000 not worth touching? I would be looking at spending about $15,000 or so.

Any help well appreciated,

KiD

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178734-kms-on-your-clock/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I have a '97 model. The body on mine has done 135000km, and it's pretty tidy. trim is all ok: i have the typical rust under the wing mirrors, but other than that, it seems to be ok - pretty well put together. My engine has done around 60000km, and is still sweet, and my suspension is around 10000km old, so I have no complaints there.

1997 model, auto, 92000kms.

brought into the country 3years ago with 48000kms on it for 32000$$$$

for 15g, get a series 2 with under 90000kms on it, demand log books + service history (mine has 'em).

and not a problem that i havent caused

not a problem that you haven't caused hay..... Wanna be home mechanic? or not... Im a bike mechanic and see it all the time so no offense if its not that!

If you're happy with an auto

Should be able to chuck the bikes in the back too :D

Very happy with buying an auto, can just sit back and chill out. Yes fitting bikes in the back is half the idea of buying a stag... can get my bike to races quicker and in more style.

Another question:

Would importing or buy one all ready here be the way to go for about 15k? And also I'm in SA if I purchase on from interstate what sort of things do I have to go through with registering it? eg. over the pits here in SA or not? Also if I get one imported through a business outside SA (thinking maybe import with J-Spec) and it gets complied in a different state whats the go their?

Cheers in advance.

Edited by kidafa
not a problem that you haven't caused hay..... Wanna be home mechanic? or not... Im a bike mechanic and see it all the time so no offense if its not that!

Very happy with buying an auto, can just sit back and chill out. Yes fitting bikes in the back is half the idea of buying a stag... can get my bike to races quicker and in more style.

Another question:

Would importing or buy one all ready here be the way to go for about 15k? And also I'm in SA if I purchase on from interstate what sort of things do I have to go through with registering it? eg. over the pits here in SA or not? Also if I get one imported through a business outside SA (thinking maybe import with J-Spec) and it gets complied in a different state whats the go their?

Cheers in advance.

may i suggest that if you are in SA (i presume Adeld?) go and see Major "Tangles" ride in flesh. he will be able to give you a very sensible picture of a stagea apart from his "ADDICTION" for extra power!! :D:(

190,000km. I win!

I've only had to replace the alternator in the engine bay, most other things I've upgrading like suspension and exhaust components. it's never missed a beat other than the alternator, but that was an easy fix. everything still works, and I just put a manual in it. it's still going strong. RB engines are built to last as long as you don't flog them too hard.

may i suggest that if you are in SA (i presume Adeld?) go and see Major "Tangles" ride in flesh. he will be able to give you a very sensible picture of a stagea apart from his "ADDICTION" for extra power!! :D:(

Or you can come for a drive in my s2 if you live out north :D

Just a warning though, everyone who has come out to see Tangles' stagea or my stagea has ended up buying one :)

Mine now has 60,000km's on it. When I bought it in March last year it had 28,000kms. Not sure if those km's are genuine but everything about the car looked like a car that had been sitting (possibly in a caryard) for most of its life. Very good interior condition and overall true to its auction grade 4 :)

You'll get it cheaper if you import it (ie. through jspec or similar) but some people prefer to see/drive the car before they buy it...

Edited by pixel8r

Would be more than keen to come look at Tangles and pixel8r's stages......

Now anyone have an answer about buying one interstate then registering it here in sa and what I would have to do so? Also same deal but If i imported it and complied in interstate... see above ^^ cheers

190,000km. I win!

I've only had to replace the alternator in the engine bay, most other things I've upgrading like suspension and exhaust components. it's never missed a beat other than the alternator, but that was an easy fix. everything still works, and I just put a manual in it. it's still going strong. RB engines are built to last as long as you don't flog them too hard.

I forgot: I have had to have the alternator rebuilt as well...

Would be more than keen to come look at Tangles and pixel8r's stages......

Now anyone have an answer about buying one interstate then registering it here in sa and what I would have to do so? Also same deal but If i imported it and complied in interstate... see above ^^ cheers

I bought mine from a dealer on the gold coast and it was registered in QLD before I picked it up. All I had to do is drive it back here and change the rego over at regency. The rego changeover isn't the full regency inspection, its actually just a quick check of the compliance plate and a bit of paperwork to change the rego into your name. I was there for about 20 minutes.

Only thing to be aware of is that some people have been questioned about the "tint" on the rear windows. They have whats called "privacy glass" or "uv cut glass" (same thing). A lot of modern luxury cars have privacy glass. All it means is that its actually dark glass, rather than tint. It cant be removed. And because its not tint, its not illegal. These cars have passed SEVS and you should get paperwork from the compliancer showing that it passes compliance.

When I went in, they tested the rear window with a light meter but then never mentioned anything about it.

The things they're likely to look at is ride height, rim sizes, intake mods (I believe a shielded pod filter OR a fmic is ok, not sure if you can have both) and just obvious stuff like that. If your car looks reasonably standard and your compliance plate checks out you'll have no trouble at all. :D

Sounds like it will be an import to me.... unless their is a stag priced well here in sa or somewhere on the mainland... not TAS

you joking? I've had a look at prices in the 2 caryards I know that currently have stagea's they're quite over the top expensive IMO. You need to ask yourself if a 3 month/5000km warranty that covers virtually nothing is worth paying $5000-10,000 extra for...pretty simple equation of you ask me :)

Importing one is not without its risks either but I've not read of anyone having any major trouble.

I bought mine from a dealer interstate but I would definitely look at importing one through either jspec or prestige if I were to do it again. :)

Other people I know have bought one privately in australia (ie. not from a dealer) and have had good results as well. It depends if you're willing to pay a bit more for the luxury of seeing and driving the car before you buy it.

Edited by pixel8r

Not really fussed about seeing it in the flesh or driving it just some pics on the net would be ok.... but Ill go drive one at a car yard for sure even if I'm not interested just to see how they drive :)... sure it will be a lot different and better to the commodore and Renault megane cabriolet I drive at the moment....

you joking? I've had a look at prices in the 2 caryards I know that currently have stagea's they're quite over the top expensive IMO. You need to ask yourself if a 3 month/5000km warranty that covers virtually nothing is worth paying $5000-10,000 extra for...pretty simple equation of you ask me :)

My thoughts exacly. Buy interstate, make sure it's stockish, get aquainted with it on the drive back to ADL, go for an ID check for transfer of rego, bob's your uncle. Exactly what i did. I even made sure the dealer registered the car in Vic, of which the refund i have just received. There's no way you'll get anything decent for $15k here otherwise, not series 2 anyways. If you're located near Payneham/Marden i can take you for a drive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...