Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the manual for the sr20 lifters say to bleed all air out of the lifters

an engine assembly workshop told me to bleed all oil out of the lifters......... i was confused of what to do

i followed the manual and was fine. if there's a workshop manual for the rb25 then i'd go by what it says. sorry i dont even know if they exist :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179381-urgent-help/#findComment-3270271
Share on other sites

ok well ive had my head off twice (rb25det) and both time the lifters were pre bled at the head reco place so i did not need to touch them, all the heads we get back from head reco place when i worked at mechanics shop that had hydro lifters we didnt touch them, lifters are pre bled by head places, if u dont take head to a shop then yes its probably a wise move to bleed them...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179381-urgent-help/#findComment-3270283
Share on other sites

Hmm, never heard of this one.

I had a CVH engined Ford. They said to squeeze them when immersed in oil, then install them.

Fire the engine, and they will probaly rattle, some will clear up, some not.

Let the engine idle to norm temp, then switch off. Leave 10-15 mins, then fire it up again, and they will be ok.

I did this, and it was 100% true, all cleared, sounded good.

If they are rattling still, there's something wrong, check your work, or oil type. Oil needs to be thin at ambient temperature, 20/xx usually caused the Fords to ratttle, as oil could not get to the top of the engine quick enough, thus the lifters didn't get enought oil at start time, so they rattled all the journey until stopped.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179381-urgent-help/#findComment-3281948
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

When I've had my head at the workshop both times they bled the lifters.

I believe it just cleans them up a little; removes old oil etc.

Ash. I wonder what the reasoning behind the spec sheet of your cams also stating the lifters must be bled? :S

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179381-urgent-help/#findComment-3309060
Share on other sites

When I've had my head at the workshop both times they bled the lifters.

I believe it just cleans them up a little; removes old oil etc.

Ash. I wonder what the reasoning behind the spec sheet of your cams also stating the lifters must be bled? :S

didn't see this on the spec sheet joel?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179381-urgent-help/#findComment-3310103
Share on other sites

Sorry bud.

I thought you said in a pm after it was all back together you read you had to bleed the lifters? :P

ah, that was for the other spec cams i was looking at cause they had a slightly higher lift, the ones i was saying u should look at!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179381-urgent-help/#findComment-3312430
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
Must u bleed your lifters when installing new cams and why?

cheers!

bump, I know you are all probably over it by now but to add my 2 cents worth, having flopped onto this (looking for something else as usual)

Why/when do you bleed hydraulic lifters before/during engine rebuild/installation. To waffle a bit, I have always found that if people are told why first up it usually answers a lot of other questions down the track and/or will allow people to work things out for themselves.

You bleed/prime hydraulic lifters or anything hydraulic for that matter so that it does not go back into service dry.

Imho the supplier/repair manual author must assume that the said lifters are completely empty of the good oil or could be, from either having been supplied new in packet covered in preservative only or cleaned with a proprietry solvent during inspection prior to deciding that they are not worn or damaged & are therefore suitable for refitment to your otherwise new head/block etc., which would have been rebuilt using copious amounts of assembly oil (you hope) so that no moving parts start life metal to metal. (dry)

Either way if they are installed in this empty condition they are gonna rattle for a while, wear until the engine oil circulation system pumps them up to operating pressure & as someone pointed out earlier maybe stick down (suction close) and maybe not pump up at all, ever. Someone else said that it helps clean the old oil out of your lifters & so it does but the primary reason is to give them a chance of not sticking permanently closed on initial startup. Hydraulic lifters are little oil pumps & most all pumps work better from startup if they are preloaded/primed.

So, if they have been sitting for a while before re-install, or are new in box, prime'em, they'll loveya for it.

Cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179381-urgent-help/#findComment-3345072
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...