Jump to content
SAU Community

Cusco Roll Cage

DjeMz

By DjeMz,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Just because its approved by some other body, still will not mean it will gain approval here mate.

Thats the point im trying to explain here.

If the drift scene gets told to go approved cages or none, then your in the shit.

tacker Mentor

tacker

Posted
Posted

Not sure i understand how i would be in the shit.

I have never said that these cages were CAMS or who ever looks after drifting in Australia approved: What i did say is that they are approved and homlogated by the JAF and made to FIA regulations.

A good point would be to find out if approval from one ASN is carried over to another is possible, it must be as we see the V8 supercars race in this part of the world with cams approved cages, well i think they are CAMS approved?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Not sure i understand how i would be in the shit.

I have never said that these cages were CAMS or who ever looks after drifting in Australia approved: What i did say is that they are approved and homlogated by the JAF and made to FIA regulations.

Ye, thats all good and well... but what does it have to do with the topic at hand?

A cage in AUS

DjeMz Mentor

DjeMz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Put it this way dude, if you can find me a 6 point cage Roadworthy AND cams/bla bla bla approved under $700 i will get it done within the month!

In terms of rigidity, will a 6 point be way, way better then a 4? Or will the change be minimal?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

6-point will require you to re-rego the car as a two seater i believe due to the arrangement it requires in a coupe.

This is a bit of dicking around, and more-so if you wanted to sell it later and make it a 4 seater again etc etc.

A 4-point is $700-$800 as i said, and keeps it a 4 seater.

As for the change, best to talk to the cage maker, it would depend some factors i would imagine

DjeMz Mentor

DjeMz

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Why would you need to register the 6 point as a 2 seater?

The only diff between a 6 point and 4 point is the 2 bars that come across the front of the cabin + roof bars (in red)?

cagec.gif

cagee.gif

I thought it was as long as the cage isnt like the picture below

012_02.jpg

Where you have that triangle support thingy, then it can remain a 4 seater?

Edited by DjeMz
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I can't see how you would want to sit in the back of a car with a 4 point harness let alone 6. For a start what protects your head from hitting the cage in the rear if you're not wearing a helmet.

In NSW, 4 point cage requires 2 seater, 6 point is not legal due to the head injury potential.

CAMS rules? none of the cages in the post above are of legal design and I understand the metal is too thin anyway. Type E has more than 1 bend in the front legs (big no-no for rigidity) and neither has the diagonal brace.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

tacker, the hole drilled into your cage I understand is one of the JAF/FIA requirements. But the two stickers in your pic. the top one is just the part number and model info of the cage. it just looks like a regular sticker, not a self destroying one. the silver sticker is just the NAPAC member sticker. showing that cusco is a member of the japanese auto parts association (like SEMA in the US). they put that silver sticker on heaps of their parts.

the FIA approval plaque must be somewhere else.

I agree with nismoid in that a cusco cage is no use for CAMS scrutinsed events requiring a cage. I'm not sure I agree with it being more dangerous than no cage though. I mean they are made to a standard, and produced by a reputable company. yes the bends in the front legs reduce strength in that area, but the roll over hoop alone would be a huge lift to occupant safety in any roll over crash. the reason they don't meet approval here is that the standards here have VERY specific requirements (like what type of seamless tube, wall thickness, style of welds and joins, thickness of mounts) for all I know the cusco one may meet many of the requirements and fail some just slightly. I don't think that makes it dangerous.

tacker Mentor

tacker

Posted
Posted

I reckon this topic has been done to death now :-)

And i am getting more confused each post .......which is not hard.

As i now understand only international events required FIA approved cages. Now this is where i am getting confussed, any national event is covered by the local ASN. And it is up to them to approve a cage for MOTORSPORT within national events as long as the design of it and material is within the guide lines of appendix J section 253 of the FIA regs. Even if you purchase a bolt in cage from any supplier. If you installed it, then it is up to you to sign the paper work to present the cage for inspection to the ASN for the log book to be produced. They will then decide if its correct or not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...