Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering how much a boost guage might cost and where can i get one for a good price. Also, Im wondering what sort of boost my car might be reaching now. It has turbo back 3" exhaust and Redline air filter. Cheers.

Actually, one more question. What would be the next best mod. From reading these forums it seems to be a S-AFC II

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17977-boost-guage/
Share on other sites

Boost gauges will vary in price alot depending on manufacturer. Jap brands are about $350+, local brands about $150+. Not much difference apart from the name. Check in the 4 Sale section, might be able to pick one up cheap:D

Either the S-AFCII or FMIC would be my next buy, keeping in mind your clutch will eventually go with more power.

Boost might have risen slightly, possibly up to 9-10psi.

I'd have your compression checked first if your loosing oil though, might need to money for that:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17977-boost-guage/#findComment-374495
Share on other sites

The boost may have risen a bit - but i wouldn't say up to 9-10 psi.. Zanda's has a dump and hks pod (very high flow, only fliters rocks and small birds :P) and his was only running 5-6psi. I'd imagine that yours would be around the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17977-boost-guage/#findComment-374681
Share on other sites

vdo guage and no leaks.. me thinks that the improvement made on zanda's car is a bit more than just an extra psi (his is set to 10)...

i'd say that yes 7psi IS standard - but i doubt after 80,000kms that most cars would still be doing that..

improvise - post your stock boost levels when you get the guage on to settle the argument.. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17977-boost-guage/#findComment-375244
Share on other sites

caminperth, we can't take ImPrOvIsE's boost level as being factory anymore. His intake and exhaust mods would have free'd up back pressure and increased boost by the by. Those would be the only reasons for boost to change over the years. Except for air leaks and stuff of course. :)

If I remember from back when my car was stock (factory airbox, exhaust, the lot), the factory boost gauge used get up to 3.5, which is 6.8psi. Filter and exhaust saw boost rise to ~10psi.

BTW ImPrOvIsE, I would go for fuel control next, so yeah, a SAFC (or pfc or whatever) before a FMIC.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17977-boost-guage/#findComment-375386
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...