Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I need to get a roadworthy for my GTR32. Need one where they aren't picky on things cuz it's quite modified, but it has modification plates. It's just the stuff like it has no ABS, no aircon, etc etc. Basically I need a RWC no matter wot before this saturday!!! Inputs please!

Cheers~

Edited by J-Boy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179885-need-rwc-for-modified-gtr/
Share on other sites

i got my car done at boike autmotive at kuraby, they didn't seem to worry too much about mods but they did look at the safety items, like steering, braking, drive train lights etc. no so worried about exhaust, suspension i.e. coilovers.

If he doesn't need the RWC, but would prefer one, and your going to get a dodgey one.. what is the point in getting one at all LOL

It's not that hard to get one though, just find a dodgey looking place and tell them you want to transfer the car from your dads name to yours asap, works a treat ;)

ACE auto in Murarrie did mine.

Although my car was fairly stock, they did not have anything to say about the following.

18" non standard wheels

Sports steering wheel

HKS blow off valve

Lowered

Eyelids over headlights

Cat back exhaust

They also looked after the car quite well, no grease or shit on the steering wheel or dirt in the carwhich is what you usually get after any mechanic has been in it.

There really are no "relaxed" places anymore, believe me I looked as I was really worried about the above.

They have all been shut down or will only do it for really really close mates.

Thanx guys, didn't need one in the end~ car's sold~

Even so, to clear up something for everyone.

Roadworthy does not depend on modifications done. There are certain guidlines that they must follow. Other than that, as long as the car is essentially safe, it should pass.

If you have a blue plate for your mods, then they should not even need to be checked in a roadworthy

Silly things pass like:

You can have absolutely no baffling left in your rear muffler but if it doesn't exceed noise limits and there are no holes then it passes.

No spare needs to be present.

Only driver's side window has to work

Oil leaks are ok as long as (after cleaned) they do not form one drip within 10 minutes.

Surface rust is ok but can't poke anything through it.

As you can see it's not like you have to have a new car to pass.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...