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Another R33 Gtr Rebuild


Penfold
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Car Condition:

R33 GTR

Upgrades:

Tomei Fuel Pump, 700cc Sard Injectors

PowerFC/Blitz ID3 Boost Controller

Adj Cam Gears, Tomei 260° Poncams,

Trust Intercooler, Aluminium radiator with Oil Cooler

HKS GT-SS Turbos

Reason for Rebuild

About Mechanic fixed head gasket & fitted Cam Gears, fuel pump, HKS turbos, cams, water pump, timing belt, replaced hoses etc. However, it has been driving pretty rough and the compression in no1 was low. Drove around for months & months. Mechanic pulled engine apart & looks like the bolts on the ajdustable cam gears came loose on intake side & ignition became very advanced & lead to damaged valve (not to bad - compression down about 30 & not too much scoring. On the other hand Crank & Conrods are in good condition.

Current Shopping List:

- Block Machined etc.

- New Clutch - Current is a Nismo Gmax thing & is pretty on/off looking at something easier to drive as 99% of driving is on streat - mainly to & from work. Looking at Jim Berry.

- ARP 2000 Rod Bolts

- Nissan N1 Oil Pump with collar

- ACL Big end & Main bearings (SR20 bigend bearings & RB30 Main Bearings)

- CP Pistons and rings

- Tomei Head Gasket Set - with restrictor

Now as 99% of driving is on the street and fairly boring - wondering if I should get baffles, etc.

Any advice is awesome,

Cheers,

Pen

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If the bolts on the inake cam came loose, it couldnt advance anything let alone the ignition timing as thats driven off the exhaust cam.

ACL do rb26 big ends bearings

You wont need a crank collar, as the R33 cranks have a long drive already

Rest looks pretty good, although i would rebore the block to suit oversize pistons so you arent working with bores that have 10 yrs work.

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whilst its apart be sure to fit the restrictor and a sump baffle and drill the sump webs. It may not be required with a restrictor but honestly for the 300 bucks they cost is it worth pulling the engine down again IF something happens.

Id also be fitting ARP head studs if you plan to run a metal gasket and be sure to have the block deck and head surface checked/ground

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agreed but when building one I still like to cover ALL bases and fit a baffle kit.

I ran my old RB26 for 2 years with no baffle and it never suffered oil issues (besides the leaks) it seem more circuit time than most as well.

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