Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Will give that ago. Yer will do. How think Should a 32 after market rotor be? I ask as was told if its not the right size might cause problems with the pistons working right

A 32 GTR rotor is 32mm; min thickness would be around 30mm.

Rotor width won't stop the calipers from working, there is more variation in piston extension with worn pads (6mm approx) as compared with new pads.

The pistons simply push out further to make contact with the rotor. You can run the pads down to the backing plates, on a min thickness rotor; and still keep the pistons captive.

Good suggestions from 3Katz, and normally they are quite easy to bleed.

Did you push the pistons all the way back into the caliper to remove as much air/fluid from the calipers before starting?

Obviously the bleed nipples are at the top on both sides?

Silly question, but I've seen people fit Sumitomo's upside down, then go mad trying to bleed a caliper that will always be full of air.

Once 1 piston pops out, compressed air won't work. I found it was necessary to lever the pistons out gently with a pair of levers in the dust boot groove.

If you protect the caliper and pistons well, and the shafts of whatever levers you use; there is nothing wrong with doing this.

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Did you push the pistons all the way back into the caliper to remove as much air/fluid from the calipers before starting?

Obviously the bleed nipples are at the top on both sides?

Silly question, but I've seen people fit Sumitomo's upside down, then go mad trying to bleed a caliper that will always be full of air.

Once 1 piston pops out, compressed air won't work. I found it was necessary to lever the pistons out gently with a pair of levers in the dust boot groove.

If you protect the caliper and pistons well, and the shafts of whatever levers you use; there is nothing wrong with doing this.

Yes, good point once one piston pops out you have to get a little creative, I like to reinstall the removed piston just past the seal and then chock it up with wood, old pads, rag and G clamps - whatever you can fit in there and keep going in that manner untill all pistons are removed. Once the last piston has popped they should be easy to grab hold of and pull out, but as Daleo said if you're fortunate enough to have dust seal grooves to get a lever in then that would be perfectly fine and possibly much easier. Good point with the upside down caliper too! And obviously you must bleed both sides of an opposed piston caliper. Hope it doesn't sound like telling you to suck eggs but it sounds as though you're getting info that's not quite right from somewhere and it can't hurt to have too much help! Good luck, let us know how you go.

Yes, good point once one piston pops out you have to get a little creative, I like to reinstall the removed piston just past the seal and then chock it up with wood, old pads, rag and G clamps - whatever you can fit in there and keep going in that manner untill all pistons are removed. Once the last piston has popped they should be easy to grab hold of and pull out, but as Daleo said if you're fortunate enough to have dust seal grooves to get a lever in then that would be perfectly fine and possibly much easier. Good point with the upside down caliper too! And obviously you must bleed both sides of an opposed piston caliper. Hope it doesn't sound like telling you to suck eggs but it sounds as though you're getting info that's not quite right from somewhere and it can't hurt to have too much help! Good luck, let us know how you go.

These actually only have the one bleed point, but the internal porting ensure the air from both sides rises to the bleed point.

Best of luck, it's easy to miss the simple things sometimes, and the brake "specialist" doesn't sound like much help either...

  • 2 years later...

Hey i've got a s1 and i'm keen to do the r33 upgrade. I have the stock 16inch rims and i was wondering if this upgrade will fit behind em.

Cheers

Soz i just found out the answer formyself. Google.

Edited by jko_one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
×
×
  • Create New...