Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi.

Have a question about me RB25DET s1 engine that im building.

My tourque wrench is one from work, our test department uses it. Its calibrated 2 times a year, and uses a dial gauge built in it. Goes from 0 - 80Nm.

Just tourqed down the main cradle, but now my crank sort of "binds".

When the crank just has been turned around, it will spin free, and only require ~2 N to be turned. (You cant really measure it as it really doesnt move on the dial.) Easy to turn by hand.

When the crank hasnt been turned for a minutte or so it "binds". Will need around ~5 N to get it to spin free again. (On the dial gauge you can only see it move, and then drops back to nothing as the crank begins to turn / frees it self from the "bind")

Is this just oil friction I have to overcome just when turned? or?? Could this be a problem?

Best Regards

Ronni

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180559-is-this-okay/
Share on other sites

The applied force just need to be a little higher to get it to turn over when it has been standing still for a little minutte or so.

After it has begun to turn the applied force to turn it is close to nothing. It turn freely the hole way round. There are no spots were it feels more or less freely to turn.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180559-is-this-okay/#findComment-3283101
Share on other sites

Have measured both crank and cradle, ordered correct bearings, got the ordered bearings. Mounted with clean surfaces (back side of bearing) and used plenty of motor oil to lubricate.

When it is turning it feels free and top nice. My only concern is what it is that is "holding" it when it hasnt rotated for a minutte or so. What i need to overcome for it to turn.. Could it just be oil friction? Because when using the tourque dial gauge the applied force to get it turning (when i have to overcome what is holding it) is only just the needle moving, only just moving, not even up on the dial...

But when it has just been turned, and then turned again there is nothing holding it. The needle doesnt move to turn it.

Tomorrow i will try with a different tourqe dial gauge. goes from 0 - 8N. Should be apple to see more accuratly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180559-is-this-okay/#findComment-3283150
Share on other sites

On older engines, it was perfectly fine to use oil, i cannot comment on whether grease would have been better or worse. But I thought your not ment to use grease on ur main cap bearings.

What I can say, (which sounds like your describing), is that when the crank is stopped, its harder to get moving, then once its free its fine. then when u stop, it sort of sticks.

On the last rebuild on my v8. The crank did the same thing. and it was perfectly fine. If your really worried about it, borrow another torque wrench, and retorque it. and see if its the same.

since their is no oil pressure, the bearing oil hole and groove, can only pickup oil from spinning. when you sit still, the oil is pushed back off the bearing into the groove, you have to then spin it to pick up the oil into the hole and groove again.

Thing is, you must still be able to move it buy hand, at the correct torque. if its harder than that. its possibly too tight.

but i would rather a professional post here. as Im a novice. good luck.

Edited by silverbulletR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180559-is-this-okay/#findComment-3283710
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...