Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my GTST back from the tuner last week, and very happy as they took it from 214rwkw to 235rwkw with 16 psi dropping back to 14psi at full power. They did add timing and a bit more boost as previously it was peaking at 13psi.

Driving home from work in peak hour this afternoon the "engine check" light came on several times intermittently. Given it was peak hour this was under minor/moderate throttle.

I spoke with the tuning shop when I got home and they recommended monitoring tomorrow (which is a public holiday in Brisbane) and calling them first thing Thursday.

Its got an Apexi PFC, but unfortunately I don't have the hand controller to tell me if it's knock/detonation.

Do these cars have knock sensors and retard the timing under detonation conditions?

Should I just back off the timing a smidge?

Is a hand controller likely to be available so I can monitor this stuff?

I've got a track day next week, and the last thing want is a blown motor.

cheers

Mike

stock turbo ? if so, change tuners cause this one has no idea. The PFC doesn't retard the timing when it detects knocking - only the stock ECU does. You *could* try taking a few degrees of timing out if you can isolate the trouble spots and get your hands on a hand controller, but better off just taking it real easy like nismoid said and letting your tuner sort it out on the dyno.

edit: also, if your still running stock injectors, the engine light could be referring to injector duty cycle. Again, if this is the case, change tuners to someone who knows what they are doing with the rb25. 235rwkw is too much for stock injectors.

(im not having a go at your tuner - just suggesting some problems. a stock turbo at 16PSI would be feeding a ncie supply of hot air to your engine which could easily cause knocking.)

Thanks guys

The turbo's a hks 25/30, but the injectors are likely stock (not that easy to tell).

You confirmed what I thought - take it easy and let them sort it.

Lucky the track day is a week away.

cheers

Mike

Edited by mikel
running out of fuel at top end, need bigger injectors

Could be, but the light was coming on at no/minimal boost while dealing with ugly traffic - likely I've "laboured" the engine at low revs/low speed with too much timing.

Either way not good - thanks for the input.

I'll be taking it easy until it gets back to the tuner.

the engine check light come on (and stay on for the period of the event) if;

a standard sensor fails

a standard sensor goes out of range (voltage too high, or too low)

so if the CAS goes out of range the light will stay on while its out of range

so if the water temp sensor goes out of range for 4 seconds it will stay on while its out of range

the engine check light will flash if;

knocking exceeds 60

fuel injector duty exceeds 98%

airflow meter exceeds 5.0v

so if its happening during low load it could be a sensor is failing

this would be obvious by the light staying "on"

SENSOR SW CHECK on the hand controller will show you which sensor is toast or going out of range

it will be highlighted in a black background

the engine check light come on (and stay on for the period of the event) if;

a standard sensor fails

a standard sensor goes out of range (voltage too high, or too low)

so if the CAS goes out of range the light will stay on while its out of range

so if the water temp sensor goes out of range for 4 seconds it will stay on while its out of range

the engine check light will flash if;

knocking exceeds 60

fuel injector duty exceeds 98%

airflow meter exceeds 5.0v

so if its happening during low load it could be a sensor is failing

this would be obvious by the light staying "on"

SENSOR SW CHECK on the hand controller will show you which sensor is toast or going out of range

it will be highlighted in a black background

thanks Paul - excellent info and should be sticky'd

Anybody know how easy it is to get a hand controller? I know my first tuner tried 2 different controllers before giving up and I took it to someone with the laptop software (Datalogit or whatever)

Assuming the injectors are maxed out, what would people recommend in regards to straight fit injectors?

Would I have to upgrade the fuel pump at the same time (assuming both injectors and pump are stock)?

Edited by mikel

nismo make injectors that fit straight in.

if it is happening at low load it means either a sensor is failing or the light load tune they did has too much time/not enough fuel. take it for a run and give it a good stab and see if it come on under full load.

there is no way the injectors could be maxed out at low load, but at 235kw you would be mighty close.

nismo make injectors that fit straight in.

if it is happening at low load it means either a sensor is failing or the light load tune they did has too much time/not enough fuel. take it for a run and give it a good stab and see if it come on under full load.

there is no way the injectors could be maxed out at low load, but at 235kw you would be mighty close.

How dangerous is it to give it a stab under full load if it is detonation? How quickly does an engine self destruct under those conditions?

Does it flash 3 times? It is knock I would say.

If you said it was under full throttle and the light just stays on for a second or 2 it would either be maxing out AFM or injectors. Both likely if you have the standard items.

This time my money is on knock since it is low load

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...