Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For the R33 use the BMW Bi-xenon lenses, if you do a search on ebay for Bi-xenon projectors, you'll see what i mean :laugh:

You might need two though because i think R33s don't come with projectors standard?

I'm using two Nissan Murano Bi-xenons on my 32 at the moment, still making up adapters and waiting for the first set to arrive

But it'll be 4-low beam lights on, all circular to match the tail lights :) then 4-high beam :)

The bi-xenons basically use one bulb for both high/low and have motors to adjust the lense and an autolevelling motor to adjust the height

Check out www.hidplanet.com/forums that's where Ronin_09 from the other post got most of his ideas for his retrofit and damn it looks good.

For the R33 use the BMW Bi-xenon lenses, if you do a search on ebay for Bi-xenon projectors, you'll see what i mean :thumbsup:

You might need two though because i think R33s don't come with projectors standard?

I'm using two Nissan Murano Bi-xenons on my 32 at the moment, still making up adapters and waiting for the first set to arrive

But it'll be 4-low beam lights on, all circular to match the tail lights :angry: then 4-high beam :P

The bi-xenons basically use one bulb for both high/low and have motors to adjust the lense and an autolevelling motor to adjust the height

Check out www.hidplanet.com/forums that's where Ronin_09 from the other post got most of his ideas for his retrofit and damn it looks good.

Just curious as to how you will fit 4 projectors in the headlight assy. I have been thinking about 4 but today i got the idea for bi-xenon projectors and making the current high beam a big set of fog lights connected to my fog light button! yet 4 projectors would be nuts.

it shouldn't be too hard to fit 4 :)

I've test fitted a set of halogen in there, off a J30 infinity(which people say make good HID retros because they have a clean cutoff)

but I've decided that a proper bi-xenon would be nicer, I'm mocking it up on a broken headlight at the moment, I'll post pics in a few weeks when I've got the alignment perfect

Pity the R32s have the glass covers with pits in them, but I'll be hopefully making perspex covers for them, so there shouldn't be any hot spots or glare, just a solid clear lense :D

yeah I'm having one replacing the lowbeam/parklight, one replacing the highbeam :(

And angel eyes for park lights to replace the current ones, I'll post a pic up as soon as I've mocked it up :P

but the final edition will be under wraps till November-January, depending on when I finish the car, then I'll post all the pictures of my car up, from strip down to doing up, I just don't know what it'll look like or what colour yet, but it should look wicked

Do you have the projector headlights or the square looking one's? Wouldn't it look a bit funny if there was one set of projectors in a round opening and one set in a square reflector? This is what I was thinking of doing when I had the spare cash. I would keep the glass cover and see if I could have the lines inside it removed by a glass blower or something. Don't like the idea of having the perspex going faded and yellow like R33's.

Now I'm looking at bi-xenon in the projector and making the current high beams fog lights.

If I were to go retrofitting, I would just bi-xenon projectors to replace the standard projectors. I wouldn't put a projector in the high beam area because of the square shape you were talking about. Oh I guess if you were to modify the whole headlight so that you can't even notice that it was square originally then maybe.

Edited by adam-__-

I've got bugeye projector style

but i'm going for a custom perspex cover with custom shrouds, so they'll look very close to stock :thumbsup:

Here are some teasers:

I've just used the stock cover for now, but will be creating a custom shroud for the new lights and getting it chrome plated

These are from a broken headlight(i accidentally melted it in the oven, whoops)

The lenses/projectors in this are J30 and are only there to mock up for the moment, because my lights are still coming and I can't afford the second pair just yet, so I'll be putting one pair into one side first off

Stock headlight shroud(with extra projector shroud:

IMG_0306.jpg

My test subject:

IMG_0305.jpg

Test subject next to normal lense(I'll be making a mould of that lense then vacuum forming it in perspex, so it'll be clear with no lines through it

IMG_0304.jpg

Oh and here is a video about glare :) one the right is standard halogen projector on the left hand side of the car is a HID fit into normal halogen projector

Totally blinding ;) I reckon we should create a sticky warning peopel about HID kits and stopping people from selling them to unsuspecting buyers

I got the idea today to get an old set and cut the projector and parkers out of it, flip that upside down and mould it into the middle of the headlight assy to replace the highbeam section. It would look like parker, projector, projector, parker. The parkers closest to the grill could then be connected to the fog light switch with some fogs installed. Just as long as it cuts through the fog, then all good. It's not like people drive around with them on ALL the time like commonwhore drivers! :P

I got the idea today to get an old set and cut the projector and parkers out of it, flip that upside down and mould it into the middle of the headlight assy to replace the highbeam section. It would look like parker, projector, projector, parker. The parkers closest to the grill could then be connected to the fog light switch with some fogs installed. Just as long as it cuts through the fog, then all good. It's not like people drive around with them on ALL the time like commonwhore drivers! :rolleyes:

That's a pretty good idea you have there.

Is this 1 set?? I didnt know that you could get twin projectors like this.

do these only need 1 ballast per headlight?

It could just be two separate projectors mounted onto a custom bracket, but they look pretty professionally done.

I would assume you would still need a ballast per bulb, correct me if I'm wrong. I've just never seen one ballast powering two globes before.

Is this 1 set?? I didnt know that you could get twin projectors like this.

do these only need 1 ballast per headlight?

yeah one set :)

My new lights have arrived too to replace those, you need 2 ballast per headlight, because I'm having two high and two low beams per side

It'll look damn good though and Adam is right, the cut off is seriously so nice and sharp, totally worth it for the bling factor, plus with some custom lenses it'll look damn nice :)

it means the front and back will look very similar in terms of lights, both twins :no:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...