Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got one in mine, much better than the standard battery, lasts longer, more power.. though it is slightly higher than ther std battery, so you will have to make up a custom bracket to hold it down..

plus it is a sealed battery, so you can mount it anyway you want.. i also had to extend the -'ve and +'ve cables to reach..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18142-odysee-batteries/#findComment-382325
Share on other sites

If you have the money go an Optima Yellow top gell cell battery i think around 400 bucks, has killer crank power AND is deep cycle -you can let it go dead flat over and over and recharge it and it will be fine. ideal for big stereo's. We put one on a v8 and the speed that it cranks compared to a new std battery is unbelievable. Getting one for the line soon.

Ive heard good and bad about odysee batts. Some ppl love em, others say they drop cells real quick and are crap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18142-odysee-batteries/#findComment-383101
Share on other sites

I had an Odyssey ES12V800, what a piece of crap! It dropped a cell in less than 6mths.

I spoke with a few Odyssey battery stockists & users, I was shocked to find a number of them had failed within 12mths! To make matters worse the Odyssey rep treated me like an idiot & only OK'd the warranty claim after it was proven (in person) that it had failed due to poor quality construction. I offered the rep to test my car's elec system to show him it wasn't a charging sytem fault that killed the battery too! I got my money back & now run a Yellow Top Optima ($405) - that hasn't missed a beat & starts the car in a flash even after sitting for a few wks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18142-odysee-batteries/#findComment-383690
Share on other sites

I got a big odessey battery. Mainly got it for the stereo as they have alot more charge and ar more consistant. It is sooooooooooo noticeble as soon as oyu install it how quick the car kicks over on start up is incredicble compared to the standard battery. I am very impressed with mine, but price is not too good, i paid around the $400 mark for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18142-odysee-batteries/#findComment-383960
Share on other sites

It's not the starting ability that's in question with these batteries. After all a 5sec 800CCA start pulse would want to do a good job! It's the quality control & longevity that's the issue! 6mths under "normal" useage isn't what I'd class as value for money :P I could accept the fact that I had a one-off bad one but when MANY other people report that same problem (including stockists) then I'd be taking my money elsewhere (as I did). The lack of customer service from Odyssey in OZ is the final nail in the coffin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18142-odysee-batteries/#findComment-384156
Share on other sites

Spose if yours farkd up then you copped bad service aswell, it wouldn't have gone down well eh... ah well i am happy with mine so far, its been in the car for about 3-4 months so i guess i'll know soon if it does the same thing, havn't had any problems yet, but i would have a liked to get an Optima battery but couldn't get one when i needed it. Ah well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18142-odysee-batteries/#findComment-384293
Share on other sites

Nothing wrong with normal batteries peoples, just sometimes, aprticularly with decent sound systems you need a good power source, and that only comes from a decent battery and is the reason i got mine. but i had heaps of problems with my standard battery anyway, would die after a few days of not driving it simply cos the alarm was armed so i had enough and got a newy, but went the better more exspensive battery for stereo cos i needed it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18142-odysee-batteries/#findComment-384338
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...