Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys thort id try and pick your brains and see if anyone knows much about air con in these skylines.

when I change from the different settings from demister to feet it makes a click click clack noise from somewhere it sounds somewhere at the top of the dash, I have done a search and apparently it is the plastic cogs on the stepper motors, whats involved in getting these stepper motors out??

Also when switching the climate control it is only cold at 18 and the rest are all warm which is annoying, I have done a diagnostics on it and its coming up with

outside air sensor

inside air sensor

sunload sensor (not sure if this would be faulty because I did the test when it was in my garage.)

How can I find the other 2 sensors? and how can I test them?

Any help would be much appreciated, im sure with all the r33's around theres gota be someone whos had these probs aswell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181553-air-con-probs-r33/
Share on other sites

It seems that I have the same problem as you. (you can only turn the stereo up to cover it for so long lol)

Im really keen to find out what is involved in getting to the controls.

Somone here had an english workshop manual maybe there might be some help in there??

Jason.

should be the same for r33 in my car the sensor in a little vent to the left of the steering wheel was disconnected which caused problem u described, could be any of the sensors thou....cold air at 18....anything more it went hot. also when u did the diagnostic did it tell u the temp the sensors were reading were they all similar? because my the faulty sensor in mine was given a really different reading......as for the noise i get that too is abit annoying!

Edited by rgr34

I've found I can stop the clicking if I leave the air on face and feet all the time... then it doesn't click when I start the car. It will still click when I turn on the climate control or change the direction of the air, but by then the stereo is on. Bloody annoying but from what I understand its a whole days work removing the entire dash to fix it then put the dash back together. maybe I'll fix it one day... maybe

The sound you guys/girls (if any) is the sound of the gears slipping on each other when you're trying to change the direction. The gears have probably just worn out over time. To change it, I think you have to take out the whole dash to get to the heater core.

The sound you guys/girls (if any) is the sound of the gears slipping on each other when you're trying to change the direction. The gears have probably just worn out over time. To change it, I think you have to take out the whole dash to get to the heater core.

I dont mind doing that as long as I know what Im doing once I get it off and can get the parts to replace them.

Not looking forward to pulling off dash and then having to put it back together if I cannot find out what the problem is or source parts.

I'm not positive that your problem is the gears, but I heard it was common problem on the 33's heating system. I'm just giving you ideas mate. I don't want you to rip out the dash and found nothing wrong inside. Taking the dash out seems like a huge job.

I'm not positive that your problem is the gears, but I heard it was common problem on the 33's heating system. I'm just giving you ideas mate. I don't want you to rip out the dash and found nothing wrong inside. Taking the dash out seems like a huge job.

that sounds like my issue. the gears, mine only does it for 5 seconds when it turns on or off.. dash is easy. just need to find the gear thats clicking//:action-smiley-069:

should be the same for r33 in my car the sensor in a little vent to the left of the steering wheel was disconnected which caused problem u described, could be any of the sensors thou....cold air at 18....anything more it went hot. also when u did the diagnostic did it tell u the temp the sensors were reading were they all similar? because my the faulty sensor in mine was given a really different reading......as for the noise i get that too is abit annoying!

Hey mate thanks for that, have the cover off and the only thing that leads to that vent is a pipe.... so does this mean the sensor is missing or is it in a different place?

hey mate in my r34 there is the plastic pipe u describe and another plug for sensor connected in........ someone with a r33 needs to confirm its the same.......i would imagine it is thou....the plastic pipe connects to the back of the unit and the from memory the plug is on the side u see anything like that?

same issue as above, but only for around 6 clicks, but then if you listen closely espcially in the mornings i can hear like "water running down the sink" sound coming from the engine bay???? could be related to the air con issue im not sure. wondering if anyone has heard a simular thing??

guys it it the motor on which switches the vent over, mine does the same thing but I have got a second hand motor and just have to find the time to be stuffed to pull the whole Dash , cluster ...pretty much everything aroundthe dash to get to the motor.

5-6 hour job I believe....I will get around to it some day......car is only driven on the weekends anyway!

hey mate in my r34 there is the plastic pipe u describe and another plug for sensor connected in........ someone with a r33 needs to confirm its the same.......i would imagine it is thou....the plastic pipe connects to the back of the unit and the from memory the plug is on the side u see anything like that?

Hey thanks man yeah it would be good if someone can confirm if there is a sensor there because that must be the climate control problem if it is missing, seems abit werd tho because there are no wires there or anything.

cheers.

guys it it the motor on which switches the vent over, mine does the same thing but I have got a second hand motor and just have to find the time to be stuffed to pull the whole Dash , cluster ...pretty much everything aroundthe dash to get to the motor.

5-6 hour job I believe....I will get around to it some day......car is only driven on the weekends anyway!

Some say that it'll take about 6 hours, some say that if you know what you're doing, it'll only take 1 hour. I think it's best to get someone who's taken out the dash before to help save some time.

Yes it does take 4-5 hours..

Its a big job taking the WHOLE dash out..

thats right, you gotta take everything off..

This guy had pics up here on how to take the dash out: http://gtr.ferni.net/misc/dash_removal/

BUt seems like the link isnt work anymore :(

"ferni"-- hmm that name sounds familar.. im pretty sure hes on this website..

hope he sees this

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...