Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Adam,

Shaun at boostworx is knowledgeable in all things RB, so I would suggest him for sure. Cost? Well an inspection for my car was going to be ~$120 prior to purchase but he was rather booked out at the time so I went to Hi-Tech Dyno.. I would MUCH Rather have waited for Shaun in hind-sight.

Hope this helps :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297709
Share on other sites

As above, Just take it to a reputable performance workshop.

Depending where you live Boostworx=South Wilall=North

Ryan

just another thing, is $25 to $28 the right price for 33 gtrs now or is it cheap??

I dont kno wheather to be wary or not...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297762
Share on other sites

Tilbrooks would also be an option!

On that note though even if you get 100 different reports there could stiull be something wrong with it.

Not to deter you or anything... But yeah just make sure you have a decent amount of cash always put away "JUST IN CASE"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297825
Share on other sites

Also looking at a R32 GTR

Anybody got any pros and cons of getting a R32 GTR or a R33 GTR?

also anybody owned either of these? would like to ask a few questions...

cheers

i own a 32gtr, and most of the good con 32gtrs are around the $22,000 mark (i purchased mine earlier this year)... so $28 seems kinda round the mark i'd expect from a 95-ish r33 mebe a bit on the cheap-ish side of things

i'd also recomend shaun from boost worx, he's helped me out lots

questions???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297829
Share on other sites

i own a 32gtr, and most of the good con 32gtrs are around the $22,000 mark (i purchased mine earlier this year)... so $28 seems kinda round the mark i'd expect from a 95-ish r33 mebe a bit on the cheap-ish side of things

i'd also recomend shaun from boost worx, he's helped me out lots

questions???

just with th 32 what things have u had to replace, repair, fix etc cos obviously there getting old... and i have heard some bad stories and exspensive stories about the diff and the oil pump etc...

but yer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297839
Share on other sites

Things to replace/maintain: everything included in a 100k kms service, if you are unsure of true km's which most will be, suspension bushings are usually shot to hell(well mine were), rubber boots (gearbox, driveshafts, suspension), suspension if it is still stock as they are so old. Get your pumps tested and replaced if they're not flowing (they are suprisingly tough though). Window seals are usually bad as well, my boot fills with water, I just don't store anything in the boot.

Oh, and get your car doors reset as they're usually sagged...I still haven't gotten around to doing mine :D

Edited by ecenshu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297848
Share on other sites

Things to replace/maintain: everything included in a 100k kms service, if you are unsure of true km's which most will be, suspension bushings are usually shot to hell(well mine were), rubber boots (gearbox, driveshafts, suspension), suspension if it is still stock as they are so old. Get your pumps tested and replaced if they're not flowing (they are suprisingly tough though). Window seals are usually bad as well, my boot fills with water, I just don't store anything in the boot.

Oh, and get your car doors reset as they're usually sagged...I still haven't gotten around to doing mine :D

is this the type of thing boostworx can pick up if i take it there before i buy?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297855
Share on other sites

Some of what I listed can be picked up with just a visual inspection, however some things need manual labour to test and will get charged for. Compression is usually a no brainer but leakdown and flow testing pumps etc should cost something. A lot of the stuff in my car I only picked up as I owned it, couldn't really get a thorough inspection done in Japan since mine was imported.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297882
Share on other sites

Some of what I listed can be picked up with just a visual inspection, however some things need manual labour to test and will get charged for. Compression is usually a no brainer but leakdown and flow testing pumps etc should cost something. A lot of the stuff in my car I only picked up as I owned it, couldn't really get a thorough inspection done in Japan since mine was imported.

oh ok yer i have emailed boostworxs to see what they look for if i bring a car in for an inspection

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297890
Share on other sites

just with th 32 what things have u had to replace, repair, fix etc cos obviously there getting old... and i have heard some bad stories and exspensive stories about the diff and the oil pump etc...

but yer

actually nothing has gone wrong with my car, its coming up to its 100,000km service, so im going to get it done properly and actually replace the oil pump with an n1 oil pump and get the sump modified, shaun from boost worx has got some kinda techniqe he uses to do it heaps cheaper than anywhere else in adealide, basically i e-mailed EVERYONE on the workshop listing as well as a few others, boost worx was the ONLY place to give me a full itemised quote with everything explained, didnt question any crazy request i had and didnt say "bring it in to get it looked at"

but things i have had done to it: re-shimed the valves (i think this is recomended to get done ever 40 to 80,000kms depending on how hard you drive the car) as well as a leak down test and a power run to check mixtures etc. also had a lot of it visual inspected by the guys from boost worx, including suspension. havent really needed any major repairs nothing critical has failed, one of the O2 sencors was a bit dicky but has come good recently, the air-con needs looking at, but i knew that before i bought it and there are no other issues lurking. so far the bill has been around $600 - this includes $100 to attempt to silence brembos =P

it all depends on how hard your gonna push it from the time you get it... if your an experianced track racer that is going to take it out the week you get it, then you could be looking at some issues, but if you have the time to make sure things are in order first, then they will be no worse off than a 33 imo - infact slightly better :D

hope this helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297917
Share on other sites

actually nothing has gone wrong with my car, its coming up to its 100,000km service, so im going to get it done properly and actually replace the oil pump with an n1 oil pump and get the sump modified, shaun from boost worx has got some kinda techniqe he uses to do it heaps cheaper than anywhere else in adealide, basically i e-mailed EVERYONE on the workshop listing as well as a few others, boost worx was the ONLY place to give me a full itemised quote with everything explained, didnt question any crazy request i had and didnt say "bring it in to get it looked at"

but things i have had done to it: re-shimed the valves (i think this is recomended to get done ever 40 to 80,000kms depending on how hard you drive the car) as well as a leak down test and a power run to check mixtures etc. also had a lot of it visual inspected by the guys from boost worx, including suspension. havent really needed any major repairs nothing critical has failed, one of the O2 sencors was a bit dicky but has come good recently, the air-con needs looking at, but i knew that before i bought it and there are no other issues lurking. so far the bill has been around $600 - this includes $100 to attempt to silence brembos =P

it all depends on how hard your gonna push it from the time you get it... if your an experianced track racer that is going to take it out the week you get it, then you could be looking at some issues, but if you have the time to make sure things are in order first, then they will be no worse off than a 33 imo - infact slightly better :D

hope this helps

cheers for that... what were u quoted for the oil pump??

Also has anyone had a noisy diff fixed?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297932
Share on other sites

cheers for that... what were u quoted for the oil pump??

Also has anyone had a noisy diff fixed?

cant give you exact price on the what it would cost he quoted labour for the whole job + individual parts prices, the pump itself was around $600 but i have no idea about the labour involved, soz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297963
Share on other sites

cant give you exact price on the what it would cost he quoted labour for the whole job + individual parts prices, the pump itself was around $600 but i have no idea about the labour involved, soz

ok no problems because i have heard some scary $$$ figures

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297986
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...