Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Adam,

Shaun at boostworx is knowledgeable in all things RB, so I would suggest him for sure. Cost? Well an inspection for my car was going to be ~$120 prior to purchase but he was rather booked out at the time so I went to Hi-Tech Dyno.. I would MUCH Rather have waited for Shaun in hind-sight.

Hope this helps :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297709
Share on other sites

As above, Just take it to a reputable performance workshop.

Depending where you live Boostworx=South Wilall=North

Ryan

just another thing, is $25 to $28 the right price for 33 gtrs now or is it cheap??

I dont kno wheather to be wary or not...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297762
Share on other sites

Tilbrooks would also be an option!

On that note though even if you get 100 different reports there could stiull be something wrong with it.

Not to deter you or anything... But yeah just make sure you have a decent amount of cash always put away "JUST IN CASE"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297825
Share on other sites

Also looking at a R32 GTR

Anybody got any pros and cons of getting a R32 GTR or a R33 GTR?

also anybody owned either of these? would like to ask a few questions...

cheers

i own a 32gtr, and most of the good con 32gtrs are around the $22,000 mark (i purchased mine earlier this year)... so $28 seems kinda round the mark i'd expect from a 95-ish r33 mebe a bit on the cheap-ish side of things

i'd also recomend shaun from boost worx, he's helped me out lots

questions???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297829
Share on other sites

i own a 32gtr, and most of the good con 32gtrs are around the $22,000 mark (i purchased mine earlier this year)... so $28 seems kinda round the mark i'd expect from a 95-ish r33 mebe a bit on the cheap-ish side of things

i'd also recomend shaun from boost worx, he's helped me out lots

questions???

just with th 32 what things have u had to replace, repair, fix etc cos obviously there getting old... and i have heard some bad stories and exspensive stories about the diff and the oil pump etc...

but yer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297839
Share on other sites

Things to replace/maintain: everything included in a 100k kms service, if you are unsure of true km's which most will be, suspension bushings are usually shot to hell(well mine were), rubber boots (gearbox, driveshafts, suspension), suspension if it is still stock as they are so old. Get your pumps tested and replaced if they're not flowing (they are suprisingly tough though). Window seals are usually bad as well, my boot fills with water, I just don't store anything in the boot.

Oh, and get your car doors reset as they're usually sagged...I still haven't gotten around to doing mine :D

Edited by ecenshu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297848
Share on other sites

Things to replace/maintain: everything included in a 100k kms service, if you are unsure of true km's which most will be, suspension bushings are usually shot to hell(well mine were), rubber boots (gearbox, driveshafts, suspension), suspension if it is still stock as they are so old. Get your pumps tested and replaced if they're not flowing (they are suprisingly tough though). Window seals are usually bad as well, my boot fills with water, I just don't store anything in the boot.

Oh, and get your car doors reset as they're usually sagged...I still haven't gotten around to doing mine :D

is this the type of thing boostworx can pick up if i take it there before i buy?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297855
Share on other sites

Some of what I listed can be picked up with just a visual inspection, however some things need manual labour to test and will get charged for. Compression is usually a no brainer but leakdown and flow testing pumps etc should cost something. A lot of the stuff in my car I only picked up as I owned it, couldn't really get a thorough inspection done in Japan since mine was imported.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297882
Share on other sites

Some of what I listed can be picked up with just a visual inspection, however some things need manual labour to test and will get charged for. Compression is usually a no brainer but leakdown and flow testing pumps etc should cost something. A lot of the stuff in my car I only picked up as I owned it, couldn't really get a thorough inspection done in Japan since mine was imported.

oh ok yer i have emailed boostworxs to see what they look for if i bring a car in for an inspection

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297890
Share on other sites

just with th 32 what things have u had to replace, repair, fix etc cos obviously there getting old... and i have heard some bad stories and exspensive stories about the diff and the oil pump etc...

but yer

actually nothing has gone wrong with my car, its coming up to its 100,000km service, so im going to get it done properly and actually replace the oil pump with an n1 oil pump and get the sump modified, shaun from boost worx has got some kinda techniqe he uses to do it heaps cheaper than anywhere else in adealide, basically i e-mailed EVERYONE on the workshop listing as well as a few others, boost worx was the ONLY place to give me a full itemised quote with everything explained, didnt question any crazy request i had and didnt say "bring it in to get it looked at"

but things i have had done to it: re-shimed the valves (i think this is recomended to get done ever 40 to 80,000kms depending on how hard you drive the car) as well as a leak down test and a power run to check mixtures etc. also had a lot of it visual inspected by the guys from boost worx, including suspension. havent really needed any major repairs nothing critical has failed, one of the O2 sencors was a bit dicky but has come good recently, the air-con needs looking at, but i knew that before i bought it and there are no other issues lurking. so far the bill has been around $600 - this includes $100 to attempt to silence brembos =P

it all depends on how hard your gonna push it from the time you get it... if your an experianced track racer that is going to take it out the week you get it, then you could be looking at some issues, but if you have the time to make sure things are in order first, then they will be no worse off than a 33 imo - infact slightly better :D

hope this helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297917
Share on other sites

actually nothing has gone wrong with my car, its coming up to its 100,000km service, so im going to get it done properly and actually replace the oil pump with an n1 oil pump and get the sump modified, shaun from boost worx has got some kinda techniqe he uses to do it heaps cheaper than anywhere else in adealide, basically i e-mailed EVERYONE on the workshop listing as well as a few others, boost worx was the ONLY place to give me a full itemised quote with everything explained, didnt question any crazy request i had and didnt say "bring it in to get it looked at"

but things i have had done to it: re-shimed the valves (i think this is recomended to get done ever 40 to 80,000kms depending on how hard you drive the car) as well as a leak down test and a power run to check mixtures etc. also had a lot of it visual inspected by the guys from boost worx, including suspension. havent really needed any major repairs nothing critical has failed, one of the O2 sencors was a bit dicky but has come good recently, the air-con needs looking at, but i knew that before i bought it and there are no other issues lurking. so far the bill has been around $600 - this includes $100 to attempt to silence brembos =P

it all depends on how hard your gonna push it from the time you get it... if your an experianced track racer that is going to take it out the week you get it, then you could be looking at some issues, but if you have the time to make sure things are in order first, then they will be no worse off than a 33 imo - infact slightly better :D

hope this helps

cheers for that... what were u quoted for the oil pump??

Also has anyone had a noisy diff fixed?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297932
Share on other sites

cheers for that... what were u quoted for the oil pump??

Also has anyone had a noisy diff fixed?

cant give you exact price on the what it would cost he quoted labour for the whole job + individual parts prices, the pump itself was around $600 but i have no idea about the labour involved, soz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297963
Share on other sites

cant give you exact price on the what it would cost he quoted labour for the whole job + individual parts prices, the pump itself was around $600 but i have no idea about the labour involved, soz

ok no problems because i have heard some scary $$$ figures

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181578-gtr-sale/#findComment-3297986
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...