Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just renewed the insurance on my 33 with JustCar, and was surprised to see the agreed value had dropped to $12,850. I thought agreed value was a figure that was agreed upon, unlike Market value, which drops every month/year.

I told JustCar about $4k of upgrades, and they increased the agreed value by about $200!!! I complained, saying i want a higher agreed value, and want to pay more premium because i dont want to be underinsured, and the most they could raise it to was $14,250.

Has anyone has similar problems with JustCar? I'm thinking of speaking to Shannons for a quote now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181648-justcar-insurance-low-agreed-values/
Share on other sites

Thats pretty bad but i cant say ive heard good things about just cars, a friend of mine who does insurance (not cars) warned me not to go with just cars but go for H2P i got a way better quote with them then what i did with Just Cars so you should give them a call too :laugh:

Edited by /2on

I've had a few 'average' experiences with Just Car insurance.

Many years ago I was insured with JC, very briefly! They were... 'insert a four letter word here'

I also had a young guy in a S14 200SX that decided he would turn right from the left hand lane of a two lane roundabout whilst I was proceeding straight ahead - he was insured with JC. I was in my girlfriend’s car at the time and it was covered by AAMI, which JC are connected with. Without going into detail all I will say is I was absolutely blown away by how unprofessional JC were at handling their client and his at-fault claim. I also found out that AAMI doesn’t really liaise with JC at all - food for thought.

I am currently insured with Ryno Insurance Services. These guys are fantastic to deal with, offer a better level of service than Shannons (having dealt with Shannons in the past) and cater specifically to the modified enthusiast market. I have agreed value of $38,000.

Yep i was with Just Car, and they were shit. I hadnt made a claim and when it came to paying my new premium they had increased it. Simply because Skylines had been in more prangs or more had been knocked off so, everyone that owns one, gets screwed rather than rewarding those who dont claim. I had been a rating one and been with them for years too!

Thats why i went to Shannons. Agreed value, $16,500 for R33 GTST with mild mods. Choice of repairer etc.

I need to get out of JustCar, my 95 33 is agreed at only 10k and they can't do any better!!!

If I ring them and tell them I want it valued higher and threaten to change companies will they raise it?

my 32 gtst is insured with RAA H2P, in my first 12 months with them i had an agreed value of 17,000 and paying $73 per month

when i followed that on for another 12months they sent me out the new agreement stating that this had dropped to 14 something and now i pay $85 a month...

i think i might soon get off my ass and see if there are some better opportunities with insurers.

i dont really get how it works, it costs more for me to fully insure my ford laser (02 model with about 6k of mods) than a skyline or rex... i mean serioously, i think i have more chance of something bad happening in a turbo, than a fwd 1.6....

ever time i call justcar insurance i get a diffrent answer.

Absolutely true, I have found if you don't like the initial answer call back again later. First person wanted approx. $1500 yearly because I was rating 2, second person said I was rating 1 and only had to pay $890/ year.

just cars doesn't seem to make much sense then, my 93 r33 gtst agreed value is $15,000. dunno how that 95 skyline is only agreed @ $10,000. I've only got a few mods aswell, been with just cars for 3+ years and haven't had any major probs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...