Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys about 3 weeks ago i owned a ceffy but i had a bit of bad luck with it having to change the engine end gearbox within 2 weeks of having it so i had had enough of it but i came across a guy that wanted to trade his 4dr R32 for a ceffy so i though why not so her it is its my new r32 its fairly neat and drives really well just after some of u guys thoughts on wat i could do to smarten it up or even go a bit quicker as its only got the 3 in exhaust and a 600x300x75 fmic.

cheers wes :thumbsup:

post-39020-1187606804_thumb.jpg post-39020-1187606819_thumb.jpg post-39020-1187606827.jpg post-39020-1187606833.jpg post-39020-1187606838.jpg post-39020-1187606844.jpg post-39020-1187606856.jpg post-39020-1187606867.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181664-my-new-89-r32-gtst-4-door/
Share on other sites

coil overs to drop hight i lil bit, some nice deep dish rears and shallow dish front rims and tint will make it look nice and tuff. Performance= EBC and some light tuning(e-manage)!

just my opinions

brett

coil overs to drop hight i lil bit, some nice deep dish rears and shallow dish front rims and tint will make it look nice and tuff. Performance= EBC and some light tuning(e-manage)!

just my opinions

brett

well ive got Tein height and damper adjustables coilovers so theres a few dollars saved there lol

but yea im after some nice dish rims just waiting on some money lol

cheers wes

a pair of side skirts to offset the front bar and tinted windows like said before.

i would get yourself a rb25 turbo and swap the actuators way before going for an ebc. ie: use the standard rb20 turbo actuator on the rb25 with a direct vac line fron the plenum side of the intercooler piping. the bit of theroy behind this is that the standard rb20 turbo actuator holds 10psi standard and with a new vac input it will be tops. the money you would use to buy an ebc to give you 20 more kw will nearly buy you an rb25 turbo which will give you 50+ more kw and you can run a 25 turbo on a standard 20 with out suporting mods. a rising rate fuel pressure reg is recomended thoe.

also get a just jap split dump and front pipe or even a gkteck one which is a dump plus a front and cat delete pipe as well. similar prices. that will alow your new turbo to breath happilly.

then enjoy driving your car.

a pair of side skirts to offset the front bar and tinted windows like said before.

i would get yourself a rb25 turbo and swap the actuators way before going for an ebc. ie: use the standard rb20 turbo actuator on the rb25 with a direct vac line fron the plenum side of the intercooler piping. the bit of theroy behind this is that the standard rb20 turbo actuator holds 10psi standard and with a new vac input it will be tops. the money you would use to buy an ebc to give you 20 more kw will nearly buy you an rb25 turbo which will give you 50+ more kw and you can run a 25 turbo on a standard 20 with out suporting mods. a rising rate fuel pressure reg is recomended thoe.

also get a just jap split dump and front pipe or even a gkteck one which is a dump plus a front and cat delete pipe as well. similar prices. that will alow your new turbo to breath happilly.

then enjoy driving your car.

wen i had the car befor him i already put 3"dump pipe with stainless de-cat pipe on it but the dump isnt a split one but its made to flow like a split

i reckon the cheapest performance $$$ are rb25 turbo, walbro fuel pump, turbotech bleeder, exeedy HD clutch, front mount (which you have) 3inch exhuast (which is has) and safc if you dont want to get any more performance otherwise get a re-tune chip, will net you around 180rwkw, then dump some coilovers in the car, strut braces, and get some lucas brake pads and you will have a good street/track package. as for looks get some side skirts, rear pods, nice set of 17 inch rims

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...