Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I have just replaced everything from my exhaust manifold back and I seem to have a boost leak. I know this is a broad ranging question, but does anyone have any surgestions for common places to check?

I have heard it may have something to do with the adjustable wastegates? The car barley makes boost and dies around 6000 RPM...

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181698-new-turbos-on-boost-leak/
Share on other sites

bo you see nothing on the boost side of the gauge even on full throttle.

are the wastegate actuators connected to the wastegate flap?

if not, they will flap open easily under boost like a loose vagina in the wind.

then the exhaust gases will pass through the path of least resistance which will be the wastegate.

Not sure what else would cause NO positive pressure to be made.

could be.

are they NEW as in out of the box? or new as in New to you but are actually off another car.

you could do a test..

Disconnect the wastegate vacuum lines off both turbo's and plug them up.

then "CAREFULLY" go for a drive. make sure you keep your eye on the boost gauge as you give it some accelerator to load it up in gear.

it it builds boost and gets up and boogies, then you know that the turbo's are fine and the wastegates working fine, and that they need to be adjusted.

put all the vacuum lines back as it should be, then adjust the wastegate actuators as required.

it would be easier on the dyno but can be done on the road..

a whole lot of driving, stopping, adjusting, then repeat till it is how you want.

my god I would hate to have to adjust GTR wastegate actuators on the side of the road. I would say without removing a lot of surrounding gear it would be impossible unless your eyes can see through stuff and you have spanners that has a shaft like a bendy straw.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...