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ron: he isn't adjusting his cam timing, only his ignition timing. don't confuse him.

flash89: a timing light and small socket to loosen off and adjust the cas. maybe an allen key to rip off the coil cover so that you can get at the no1 coil. Depending on the timing light you are using you might have to get a plug lead off another car, and fit it between no1 coil and no1 spark plug to get a correct pickup. Thats all you will need.

On a motor warmed to operating temp, an rb20det should be set to 15deg. Thats looking at the timing marks behind the crank pulley viewed from the top. Same idea as setting the timing on an old carby car so get someone who would know about those to help you.

The only funky thing is the probable need for the coil lead as with the timing light pickup signal, using the provided loop of wire near the ignitor on my motor produces a reading of about 40 deg, instead of 20deg due to how the ignition system operates and how the timing light operates.

hope that helps.

james.

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the consult timing does not take into account whether the distributor/cas is set correctly. so you CANT use it to check that timing is set properly. the timing value is an ECU output, not an input, it doesnt know if you have advanced or retarded timing at dizzy/cas (which is why you can actually advance your timing without ecu compensating)

all you can use consult for is to use the timing lock mode (i think conzult free has this) to make adjusting timing easier by making sure the ecu doesnt make timing jump around. you then have to confirm that the timing light reads the locked value (15?).

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  • 2 weeks later...

well i fiiiiiinally finished my 100k service and she started beautifully first time (well first time after i pushed the CAS plug back in properly...) - thought i did have to tighten the distributor belt cos it was whining like my girlfriend after i've forgotten an anniversary or something.

i bought a $20 timing light from supercheap. so to do the timing i just take the coil pack cover off, connect the timing light so it's in 'serial' with the no.1 coil and point at the harmonic balancer while the engine is running and make sure it matches up with the 4th mark on the balancer?

if so, i might just dab a bit of paint pen on that mark to make it easier for me to spot yeah?

it's odd that nissan made the 0 mark orange and not the 15 mark....

any feedback on this technique? didn't want to start a new topic cos there's a few out there but none of them with definitive answers.

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The only funky thing is the probable need for the coil lead as with the timing light pickup signal, using the provided loop of wire near the ignitor on my motor produces a reading of about 40 deg, instead of 20deg due to how the ignition system operates and how the timing light operates.

Mine does the same.

Try double looping the wire through the timing lights pickup; does the trick for mine. :closedeyes:

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ok, I'll give that a try..

Have to redo my timing before I can drive it again. Pulled the cas and timing cover off to inspect and test in preparation for my parts purchases. Stock bumpsticks unfortunately. Compression tests across the board were min 175 max 182.. thank god for that.

New 2860-5's and tomei b's to buy now.. :blink:

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:P

If its reading 30-40degree's then double looping the wire tends to get the ignition read out correct; its timing light related.

If it reads 15degree's off the bat, the cas is in its usual position and the car is idling nice its 15degree's not 7/8.

30-40degree's on idle with the car idling well is impossible.

Its simply timing light related. Don't worry about it if yours isn't reading 30-40degree's. :unsure:

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:P

If its reading 30-40degree's then double looping the wire tends to get the ignition read out correct; its timing light related.

If it reads 15degree's off the bat, the cas is in its usual position and the car is idling nice its 15degree's not 7/8.

30-40degree's on idle with the car idling well is impossible.

Its simply timing light related. Don't worry about it if yours isn't reading 30-40degree's. :unsure:

but i have had it at 30 and 40 and it runs ok?

really in all the fiddling i have lost the original setting having moved the cas to all sort of positions

maybe it should be 30 and ive made it go to 15?

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If its a true 30-40degree's then once you touch the accel and it pushes in another 25degree's advance that would be a total of 65degree's advance and you would definitely feel both the lack of power and hear the exhaust as it slightly misses.

Idling on much more than 20degree's idle becomes rough and it begins to have a slight half miss/pop.

If your cam timing is correct set the bolt centred with respect to the cas and that is approx 15-20degree's advance.

If you have to dial in what looks like excessive advance or retard (hence not near centre) then your cam timing is out.

Have a play you will learn to hear how advanced or retarded it is running. A few tell tale signs are how smooth the car is running, idles lower, idles higher, does it pop/have a slight miss & the note of the exhaust. :P

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