Jump to content
SAU Community

Help me choose wheels  

16 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

what about the progressive in 19"?

Can get em, but too expensive. Over $3k for rims only. Add over $1k for decent tyres, and my misses will ban all further mods on the car :-)

Both the above will be around $3k with tyres.

Thanks Guys,

Frank, the progressive are forged as well, but I'm gonna try and get the Challenge. If all works out ok the price should be too good to refuse, but I have to wait 2 months for them to get here!

Hopefully I should be getting a Fujitsubo exhaust in the next couple of weeks and my spacer should arrive next week, so that should keep my mind off the wheels until they get here. :-)

Thanks Guys,

Frank, the progressive are forged as well, but I'm gonna try and get the Challenge. If all works out ok the price should be too good to refuse, but I have to wait 2 months for them to get here!

Hopefully I should be getting a Fujitsubo exhaust in the next couple of weeks and my spacer should arrive next week, so that should keep my mind off the wheels until they get here. :-)

That is good, Challenge is popular and easy to sell, I like it.

i am the only tool that voted for the progressive's then it seems..!

i just think that the spokes of the challenge are too thin for the size of the V35 guards

(i have f-zero challenge (very similar to the SF challenge) rims on my R32 and i put one on my V35 to see how they looked - didn't think they matched like they do on the R32..)

Edited by WazR32GTSt
i am the only tool that voted for the progressive's then it seems..!

i just think that the spokes of the challenge are too thin for the size of the V35 guards

(i have f-zero challenge (very similar to the SF challenge) rims on my R32 and i put one on my V35 to see how they looked - didn't think they matched like they do on the R32..)

Yeah, was a bit worried about the same thing. But I don't think they look too bad :)

post-194-1187952993_thumb.jpg

Bought them last night. Now the 2 month wait. Added bonus is they come with Brdigestone Potenza S-03 with plenty of tread.

What size is the ones on that coupe? for some reason they look bigger?

Definately 19's Pupl.

Check numerous pics of the wheels, and am quite happy. I think in 18's they'd look a bit weird but 19's look awesome.

Paid for the wheels, today, now the wait.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...