Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dunno whats wrong. Driving well one day. Not starting the next morning.

Here are the symptoms. mind you i dont know what everything is under the bonnet.

Cant start the car. at this point it seems like a typical battery failure. not enough voltage. and seems to need replacing.

Hicas light is on once i jump start the car. Power steering seems to be off.

Hicas light flickers and then goes away when i accelerate enough and power steering then returns

When i brake the Voltage on the battery Goes from 12 volts to about 4-6 volts and power steering goes off.

When i accelerate the Voltage on the battery goes back up to 12 volts and power steering goes back on.

This mind boggles me. please help me figure out whats wrong. otherwise ill just have to head to the mech. tho i prefer to fix my owns problems... when i know what they are!

Help!

mabye a grounding problem in the hicas unit, have you touched anything reacently?? has the hicas ever been played with if so mabye a grounding nut or bolt wasnt tighetened enough and has vibrated off?

im just guessing i have no clue just something to check

Check ALL the front belts, FAN, ALT, Power Steering, sounds like they are slipping bad and maybe battery is stuffed as well?

LOOK CLOSELY AT YOUR TERMINOLOGY AND CLARIFY your symptoms.

Skylines are EXTREMELY sensitive to voltage. If you sudeenly lose voltage to any of the ECUs floating around in the car, they will start to misbehave.

Replace the battery. And check the alternator and the fan belt.

Hey dude sucks about the issue.

your HICAS light might be coming on because you are running low on power steering fuild, they used a shared resivour. what you need to do is get some power steering fuild from super cheap or repco and top up the fuild level.

your power steering fuild is located towards the front of the car just next to your front passenger side wheel. its like a medium sized can looking thing with red fuild in it.

in regards to the voltage issue, because of the high reving nature of the RB engines the alternator wont start turning over until you hit 2000+ RPM so give it a solid blip and see what volatge is carries maybe?

good luck.

Had the exact same fault last night in my car.

Threatened to not start this mornig but did go so being the lazy unadventuruos type

I took it straight to the auto-electricain.

Turns out it was the alternator worn bushes or some such thing.

Alternator to be serviced no major dilemma or cost.

Hopefully it's nothing more sinister in your case.

Definitely check your battery first, then the grounding (negative terminal), and then your alternator - one of the diodes could be busted (problem happened to my Bluebird - the only way i got it home was too keep the engine revving as it suddenly failed) - the best solution is to buy a reconditioned or a new alternator.

I have had similar problems - turned out it was the wiring to the battery was corroded. There are a multitude of connectors on the positive cable going to the battery. touch them to see if they are warm - if so probably a bad connection, disconnect and clean them out.

good luck

Hey everyone. thanks for the replys and all the help.

here's what i've found so far.

I've checked the belts and even spray a 'belt grip' spray on them and it doesn't look like they're slipping.

I found that when the jumper leads were still connected to the 'other car's' battery, the car worked fine without revving.

so i replaced the battery ($15 for a used but still good 480 battery)...

Problems fixed. or so i thought. it was running normally again. the voltage remained at a constant 12V. then a few days later. voltage goes to about 9V and the hicas light comes back on. Yep. same problem.

Im either going to source a used & working alternator or just get my current one fixed.

does anyone know how much it costs to get my alternator reconditioned... or bushes fixed?

if you need to jump the car every time to start it, the battery is not charging. Make sure all connections are tight and jump it, drive for 30 min or longer, and that should be that. find a new alternator if that doesnt work, or a reco, either way you wont be installing it the auto electrician will

  • 3 weeks later...

Finally got a used replacement alternator like a week ago... and i put it in myself. That was a lil tough, only because its a bit of tight place to get to under the bonnet but it wasn't too hard. I could do it again, easy.

Problem's fixed. been driving for a few days now, its recharged the 2nd battery that i ran flat, All good! and costing me a total of $40 for alternator, and $15 for battery. battery was a good condition used 470 CCA. =P im happy again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...