Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got back from presentation a little while ago.

After cutting short the 3 round qualifying rounds, BK & I were fast tracked to a final based on points.

BK came first and I was runner up in Super Street/Sedan out of 14 entrants(mostly heavily modified V8s). We both received trophys & certificates.

Not bad seeing as we were the only guys in our class who drove to & from the event and werent running slicks.

I didnt get any better times today, either missing gear changes or hitting the rev limiter.

BK got slightly better 1/4 times & mph after changing back to standard rims.

Yesterday was much better as we got more practice and it wasnt as humid.

Fabio & Pinky were in the pits and I saw several guys on the hill supporting us.

Was a good day except some yobbos in the crowd calling out 'take your 4 cyl home(WTF)' 'Jap Crap' etc, but most people were supportive.

Where were all the other imports? If any of you guys entered street class you would have had a good chance to win.

Most of the cars were running very slow, with some of the BIG V8s only running 15-16 second 1/4s.

Street class was taken out by a very tidy Mitsubishi Triton with a SR20 Turbo from Darwin. Runner up was a Falcon.

I didnt get too many photos, so I will be looking foward to seeing everyones pics & vids.

good news ozzy. i wish i had my car running. i would of been racing for sure. i dont think jap cars are liked very much in alice springs. hopefully i can get my car running and setup enough for a meeting soon.

when is the next meet?

Guest Rexlr8

Ok, now im regreting being a tight ass. Wish i pay'd the money and joined you guys on the strip :) I didnt think i'd stand a chance against them guys even with awd..

Im sure my lil 4 cyl awd would have put some v8's to sleep but just didnt think it would do it.

Good stuff with the trophys and certs and putting up with the heat on the track lol.

Hey ozzy, what was your consistant 1/4 time? well average time? Some or your launches were sweet as so just seeing.

Well as Cammo said, whens the next meet? I'll have my stuff here then i can race along side you and BK and who ever of us boy's decide to join up :( And if i can part with my money haha.

Catch ya

Edited by Rexlr8

yea i dont think ill get in the 12 being rear wheel drive and on street tyers ill be happy if i can blow banny away in that falcon i think ill get low 13 to mids 13 well ozzy and bk r gettin 12 1 on a good run and they got twice the power then us so it be hard to get 12

Edited by fab34
Guest Rexlr8

Yeah man. They gettin' some silly times. But im with you on that banny thing. You better smoke his car.. From his mouth " Yeah, my falcon is so quick, does 11's "

Im going to have no hope keeping up with BK or Ozzy, but i'll try. Didnt do bad at all the other weekend against ozzy.

CADRA site says next meet is on 20th April.

I would think it might be less formal with less people from interstate and maybe no ANDRA officals.

My average times ranged from 12.2 -12.9 all weekend, while BK was very consistent around the low 12's with a best of 12.1.

The street class was that under represented by imports, I might have to bring my Datto out next time to make up numbers.

I have seen Datto's with similar mods to mine do high 14's.

In drag racing the most consistent win races, not necessarily the fastest.

Guest Rexlr8

The boy's over on Rexnet rekon im between 12.5 and 12.9. If i get even into the 13sec make im other doing something really wrong or the heat where we are is too much.

But i guess thats whats the strip is for. To find out what you can run eh.

Everyone should have a run :) Get the jap imports out there.

Edited by Rexlr8
Guest Rexlr8

Hey ozzy,

Since the next meet is April 20th. Could you do us all a favor. Since you've been in it now and pay'd for it. Could you place the prices down for us boys. We're all hearing diffrent prices and you've been in it.

So price for Superstreet class?

Price for Street class?

And do we have to get a ANDRA licence?

Like wise for the CADRA Licence?

Ah.. How much does it then cost for each meeting?

What do you need to race?

Whats the go with the $25 membership?

Anything else i've missed please put it in. Sorry about the Questions but it be good to hear it from you since you've competed.

Cheers Ozzy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...