Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just wondering what u guys think the best way to find leaks in your pipeing as ive got some pinhole leaks that i need to find and fix once and for all. I thought about using a motorbike tube then cutting it in 1/2 then putting either end of it to the ends of the cooler pipeing then using s bike pump to pump up the air inside then see where the leaks are ya rekon this is a good idea???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18187-testing-cooler-pipeing/
Share on other sites

Best way would be to cut some tube 5cm long the same size as the cooler piping and block one end off (if you can weld properly), then drill a hole in one of the plates that you use and put a tyre valve in it. Then with the ends clamped in place you just pump it up like a tyre to 50psi and check after 10 mins and see if it has changed.

... im with Clint 32, put some pressure in it the way he described, but as air is compressible, the Pressure instrument wont really decay over a 10 minute time frame if the leak is minor.

If you were to spray soapy water over the piping as meggala suggested then this will froth up and aid detection

Or when you have some pressure in the tubes, dunk it in a bucket/tank of water.

If you were to pressurise if with water, as water isnt compressible, even the smallest drop/leak will result in significant pressure drops. If you can find a cheap valve from a plumber or something, the average garden hose can provide about 350-450kpa (3.5-4.5bar)

if i was at my old work i would have used the dye as we used it all the time,but i aint gonna buy the 2 or 3 cans of it that costs like $100 for the 1 job lol im gonna reado my top pipeing anyway its too long and i really think it will reduce lag a little if i change the way it is

Lunatic - good link thanks ;)

Just one thing, if we do what they sugest and plug the inlet and pump air into the system, will the system hold preasure or will it leak out the valves?

My brain is going to sleep and I just can't think straight ATM.... LOL

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...