Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just wondering if i have a stock fuel pump in my gtr or not. I can hear it buzz loudly when i turn the car on (not start) for about 5-10 seconds. It's extremely noticable. Can you really hear the stock pump prepping? Thanks

Mine is quite loud as well. I think it is stock.

you are probably hearing the pump for the gearbox transfer case, that is a loud pump which turns on with ignition and goes for around 5-10 seconds.

The fuel pump will only do a 2-3 second prime on ignition to get pressure in the rail and can hardly hear it.

to make sure this is what you are hearing:

turn the ignition on

let the pumps do their thing until its stops pumping and no more noise

turn the ignition off

(and within 30 seconds i think it is?) then turn ignition back on

= the transfer case pump will not prime, but the fuel pump will.

^^ i hope that makes sense ^^ :P

Im pretty confident the fuel pump is the noisy one even when your talking about a stock item as mine does the same. Why would a transfer case pump be in operation at idle or with the ignition on only? They would only create pressure when you require front torque, thus locking up the clutch packs in the transfer case.

A better way to test which it actually is, is to remove the fuel pump fuse and switch the ignition on, make sure you havnt had the ignition on for quite awhile as mentioned so you would normally get the long prime noise.

Hey guys just wondering if i have a stock fuel pump in my gtr or not. I can hear it buzz loudly when i turn the car on (not start) for about 5-10 seconds. It's extremely noticable. Can you really hear the stock pump prepping? Thanks

I could hear mine; not _super_ loud though. The in-tank 044 I have now is only a shade if at all louder.

To tell if it's _really_ the fuel pump, pull the fuel-pump fuse and see if you still hear the noise

when you turn the key on.

Regards,

Saliya

Edited by saliya
Im pretty confident the fuel pump is the noisy one even when your talking about a stock item as mine does the same. Why would a transfer case pump be in operation at idle or with the ignition on only? They would only create pressure when you require front torque, thus locking up the clutch packs in the transfer case.

A better way to test which it actually is, is to remove the fuel pump fuse and switch the ignition on, make sure you havnt had the ignition on for quite awhile as mentioned so you would normally get the long prime noise.

sorry that's completely wrong. the loudest pump is the AWD pump. it primes when you switch the car on. there is an even easier way to test it. remove the AWD fuse, then turn ign on.

as for pump being standard or not, no one can tell you for sure just by the sound. sometime standard pumps get noisy. sometimes they are still quiet. sometimes aftermarket pumps are quiet, sometimes they are noisy. the only way to tell is pull it out and see what it is. or remove the fuel return and run it for a bit and see how much it puts out.

Fair enough. By the way, i didnt mean you could identify what pump you had by the noise i was just saying mine is stock and its noisy. I aggree with age they are likely to get louder. I also noticed my car does a quick prime if you leave the car idling for extended periods. Its the exact same noise that you hear when you first switch on the ignition but only for a real short time.

Can you explain to me how the transfer case works?

yeah, the second paragraph was not directed at you. just that it's impossible for us to tell what pump just because the guy says it's noisy when priming. if it's noisy when engine is running that may be another story.

as for the AWD pump priming at start up it's part of the systems check that happens when you turn a cars ign from off, to on. it checks sensors, abs circuits, primes fuel pump and primes AWD pump. and the AWD pump is by a long way the loudest. many a GTR owner have mistaken that noise for fuel pump noise.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...