Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My aerial wont go up or down. It just stopped working one day.

Is there a fuse for it somewhere?

Is there a common fault to look for with these?

Are the motors known to just die? Mine isnt making any noise, so it's not likely to be stuck, or trying to work at all.

I already pulled my deck out and checked the power aerial wire was still connected.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182488-r33-power-aerial-is-there-a-fuse/
Share on other sites

did you try connecting a wire straight from the battery onto it to make sure something in the deck isn't stuffed. also may be worth pulling out the plug that controls the height and making sure that it is connected properly

hey chris

it's an S1

which black/red wire?

there's a red/green wire hooked up to the headunit power aerial (blue) wire. it was working fine before.

also, while we're at it, what's this for? (see pic). it's bolted inside the rear quarter, just before the aerial.

post-29392-1188374361_thumb.jpg

hey chris

it's an S1

which black/red wire?

there's a red/green wire hooked up to the headunit power aerial (blue) wire. it was working fine before.

also, while we're at it, what's this for? (see pic). it's bolted inside the rear quarter, just before the aerial.

post-29392-1188374361_thumb.jpg

fuel pump ballast resistor I believe.

ok does it have voltage on that wire in the back? pull the antenna out and check for power on the plug. it should show up in 3 places. one that has +12 on it. one should have +12v key and the last +12v radio.

if all 3 are there then its motor time.

fuel pump ballast resistor I believe.

ok does it have voltage on that wire in the back? pull the antenna out and check for power on the plug. it should show up in 3 places. one that has +12 on it. one should have +12v key and the last +12v radio.

if all 3 are there then its motor time.

do you mean the wire in the back of the headunit? will check when i get time, in the next 2 days

if thats showing 12v, then i'll take the antenna out of the rear quarter and check for voltage.

chris, could you give me a quick guide to removing the antenna?

theres only 2 bolts holding the antenna assembly from the inside. is that right?

and do i need to remove the external bit around the tip on the outside of the rear quarter?

i havent had time to get to it yet.

thanks mate

IF you really need help I live in Liverpool area in sydney I can give you a hand if u want. I do this for a living, thought I help out a skyline member. Cheers Andy

thanks for the offer mate :D

i think i've got it covered. now i need to find time to do it. lol

Edited by Munkyb0y
  • 3 weeks later...

ok, i checked the voltages........finally, and i got 12v constant at one point, 12v on ignition at another 2 points, and 12v on 'tuner' at another point.

looks like the antenna is stuffed. i havent tracked one down yet.

can you answer these 2 questions for me? (refer to pic)

cheers.

post-29392-1189917638_thumb.jpg

ok bottom item is the water drain tube. that drains teh antenna so when you wash / runthe car trhrough water it doesnt stay in the motor and destroy it.

antenna wwire (top) will unplug. give it a good tug and it will release.

looking at that I think I can find one Identical to it in an aftermarket version.

happy to try if you want to send it up to me.

ok bottom item is the water drain tube. that drains teh antenna so when you wash / runthe car trhrough water it doesnt stay in the motor and destroy it.

where does it drain to? is there a drain hole somewhere in the rear quater?

you have pm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...