Jump to content
SAU Community

Any improvement with oils??


Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

Has anyone noticed any differences with the oils they run in thier engine? Is the engine more quiet on idle ? Has anyone noticed any black smoke because of thinner oils? Any problems with thicker oils ?

I know there are topics on what oils people use, but i would like to know if there is any diff in the note of the engine, is it any quieter etc, for any particular oil.

If you think this post is a waste of time Admin please delete it at your own free will.

Thanks Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18274-any-improvement-with-oils/
Share on other sites

Just recently i changed to Mobil 1 for the engine, Reline Oils for the gearbox and diff. The running temp of the car has dropped about 6degrees, idles a bit quieter, revs alot smoother and changes gear heaps better - no crunches. I'm happy i decided to switch to synth.

Mine runs soooo much sweeter with Mobil 1 in the engine. Im also running Mobil 1 synth in the gearbox and diff and I couldnt be happier with the performance of them.

Interesting to note that Mobil now make a Synthetic oil and a Tri-Synthetic oil. Now im not sure about the exact differences but im told the 10W/30 and 0W/40 come in Tri-Synthetic, while the 5W/50 is just synthetic. (Their website at the moment says only the 0W/40 is Tri, however ive seen a barcoded Mobil barrel of 10W/30 with Trisynthetic printed on the side, so it must exist)

I run the 10W/30 which I buy from a tuning shop, ive never seen it on the shelf.

Red17

my 93 r32 has done 70 thou

the importer gets services done on his cars at 2 places repco and a local mechanic

the local mechanic uses mobil 1 fully synth or mobil S semi in skylines

but ****in repco puts in valvoline xld!~@#!@

my car has had XLD in it for 4 thou k's before i got it which doesnt make me happy

its a 20-50 shit oil i ran it in my old astra and then switched to gtx3 and even knew the difference

i just dumped the oil and it was black and shitty and then ran about 3/4 a ltr of pennzoil gt performance semi synth 10-40 to wash some of the shit oil out then filled it up with the pennz

and the car runs much smoother its not funny

but im still not happy cause the engine will still have some crap oil in it but it should be ok till i dump the oil next time (only another 4 thou k's)

then ill put prolly mobil 1 semi synth which is basically the same as the gt performance pennz

i have to change every 3 months or 5 thou cause of my aswn warranty so going mobil 1 wouldnt really make a diff and it would be soo much more expensive

Originally posted by ScarifieR

my 93 r32 has done 70 thou

the importer gets services done on his cars at 2 places repco and a local mechanic

the local mechanic uses mobil 1 fully synth or mobil S semi in skylines

but ****in repco puts in valvoline xld!~@#!@

my car has had XLD in it for 4 thou k's before i got it which doesnt make me happy

its a 20-50 shit oil i ran it in my old astra and then switched to gtx3 and even knew the difference

i just dumped the oil and it was black and shitty and then ran about 3/4 a ltr of pennzoil gt performance semi synth 10-40 to wash some of the shit oil out then filled it up with the pennz

and the car runs much smoother its not funny

but im still not happy cause the engine will still have some crap oil in it but it should be ok till i dump the oil next time (only another 4 thou k's)

then ill put prolly mobil 1 semi synth which is basically the same as the  gt performance pennz

i have to change every 3 months or 5 thou cause of my aswn warranty so going mobil 1 wouldnt really make a diff and it would be soo much more expensive

Valvoline is a good oil.

GTX is crap and if you don't believe me , look inside the rocker cover of an engine that's run it for a while.

The oil is supposed to get dirty , shows it is capturing the contaminents in the engine and holding it in the oil.

I use Mobil 1 and change it every 5K or after a hard motorsport event. Cheapest engine insurance you are gonna get...

Cheers

Ken

Mobil 0W-40 Trisynth is one of the best oils you can get. Has the ideal viscosity for both cold and hot. The turbo spooled up alot easier with M1 than the GTX3 shit that my car came with when i bought it.. and was quieter at idle too. I get it for $13/L at my local mobil distributor. Its factory fill in all Porsche etc. Cant go wrong there man!!

Busky2k, where can I get Mobil 0W-40 Trisynth from for $13/litre? At that price I'll give it a go.

I've been using Castrol Formula R 10W-60 for the last 2 changes, but this time around I'm going to go back to the 5W-30 I used on my first oil change. I didn't know much about oil viscosities until only recently.

For the 10W-60, Castrol's site said it was for (among other things) "highly stressed competition engines", whereas the 5W-30 was for "high revving 4cyl engines". The first time I bought the 5W-30 I just went off the shop guy's recommendation (he was unbiased, he sold me the cheaper oil!) but for the next change I read up on the synthetic oils on Castrol's site and felt that my car would better suit the "highly stressed competition engines" description :P

But on reflection, I now think it suits "high revving 4cyl engine" better, because each piston in the Skyline is actually smaller than that in an SR20 engine. So it's actually more of a 4 cylinder engine than a 4 cylinder engine, as far as the oil should be concerned!

I believe that the factory spec for Skyline's oil is 7.5W-30, so 5W-30 isn't far off from that. Keep in mind that this is for a new engine though, not a worn one. I will see how much oil gets used with the 5W-30, and if it's a significant amount, switch back to the 10W-60 or try 0W-40.

Not having any problems with the 10W-60 at present but I feel I am wasting power forcing the pistons through the higher viscosity oil. Hopefully my power and economy will improve with the thinner oil.

JimX, I get it at Motrex.

http://www.motrex.com.au/ (Athol Park)

10W-60 is wayyy to thick for a skyline. Maybe good for a smoke blowing Sigma. I reckon 40wt is excellent for a skyline engine with some ks on it, and also good for our hot summers. 30wt is getting on the thin side, its only good for friction reduction hence the "high revving 4 cyls". The film strength of a 30wt is not good enough for a turbo car driven hard. 50wt+ is too thick and your oil/bearings will run unneccesaily hotter in anything but a track/race car. Newer RB/SR engines have tighter clearances than engines of old.

I wouldnt worry about the xxW rating so much, cos it doesnt get too cold during winter. 0W still being the most favourable, but I wouldnt go higher than 10W. As you can see, the Mobil 1 0W-40 has both bases covered, and meets some of the toughest OEM specs on the market such as MB 229.5 (Only 7 oils in the _world_ are MB 229.5 certified) so its definately safe to use for longer intervals (eg 10k+) It also is very good in terms of friction reduction.

On top of that, M1 is a true Grp IV synthetic, unlike Castrol which only uses GrpIII oil bases which is basically just ultra refined petroluem oil (cheaper to make, but its not reflected in the RRP). So why pay more?

There is Motul 300V and Redline, which are even better again, but I think its gettin a bit expensive for a street car... M1 will do u just fine! I dont claim to be an oil expert, just stating what I know, but if any more questions feel free to ask..

Yeah I'm definitely going for something thinner this time round. The car doesn't use a drop of oil so I'm pretty sure thin oil will be fine. At least I know I can fall back on the 10W-60 once the rings start to get a bit worn, hopefully for not another 100 000km!

Only 300km to go before service is due :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...