Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday,

im having my RB26 engine assembled at the moment, and im at the point of purchasing a head gasket. The engine builder recommended puchasing a 1.5mm gasket that will give me a compression ratio of about 8.5:1. I was, however, hoping to go a bit higher in order to maintain off boost drivability, but as im no engine builder, i should probably take his advice.

Im just wondering what comp ratios people have in their built RB26's and what i should aim for.

My engine has forged pistons, prepped rods, all the usual oil control stuff and a gt35/40 turbo with a 1.06 turbine housing. The car is a street car.

The reason why im wondering is that previously the engine was built with a 1.0mm head gasket that gave me 9.0:1 compression, but boost was uncontrollable with a smaller turbine housing (0.86 i think). This resulted in detonation and head gasket failure on the dyno. I then went and bought the bigger turbine housing, but im now wondering if it'll be unresponsive off boost with the lower comp ratio.

Thanks for any advice,

Shaun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182956-rb26-compression-ratio/
Share on other sites

I didnt build my motor but my comp ratio is about 8.9: 1 running twin HKS GTR RS's with a 2.8 litre stroker. No pinging problems at all.. Highest i see on the power fc is about 14, bottom end is great. Wouldnt have it any other way.

No offense intended, but if the engine builder is recommending a thick headgasket to get an appropriate comp ratio, he shouldnt be building rb26's. I wouldnt have any problem running the higher comp ratio(8.8-9:1) as long as you give it nice tight piston to head clearance to improve combustion efficiency and reduce detonation.

A 1mm head gasket should give 8.5:1 CR as that is stock. I would repeat that if I was you.

I had much discussion and head scratching about CR in my RB25 and ended up with 8.75:1 but if you are building an engine I can't see why you would use the headgasket to determine the CR. Use the pistons, block and head machining so you maintain proper quench and squish zones.

I love the off boost response (not too much different from the 9:1 standard on RB25) and wouldn't wouldn't want to go much lower due to piggish response or much higher due to harder to tune and got to keep a closer eye on things.

all depends on what your "high boost" setting will be.

i had a 1.5mm one in my dr30 (rb26) it made 328rwkw on 1.2 bar. going 1mm oversise and using a 1.5mm gasket will give standard comp.

using a standard gasket thickness with a overbore will raise it.

Yeah, its 20 thou over size and i had to have the head machined to within an inch of its life due to damage sustained in the last failure. Hence, gasket thickness is the thing that will vary my comp ratio this time.

Is standard RB26 comp ratio 8.5:1 is it? I thought it was higher for some reason.

Shaun.

With you combination of parts there is always this significant point to think about .

Nissan designed that engine to have parallel turbochargers because it is a convienent way the group the front and rear cylinders and take advantage of the pulse effect - this is the way to have high exhaust gas flow and acceptable turbine response . Also having two integral wastegates means they have plenty of bypass area and the whole shooting match is compact - along the line of the engine for ease of packaging in a Skyline .

When you go to a normally single scroll single turbocharger your tossing all the exhaust putts back into one area so you lose the multi passage effect and this will cost you turbine response . Its your call but if it were me I'd stick to either known parallel twins or a properly set up twin scroll single turbocharger .

Given a choice I'd go a little higher than the factory 8.5:1 CR and juggle this with the specific turbo characteristics and the dynamic or effective compression ratio with better than standard camshafts .

The things that will have the most say about how it drives just round the burbs will be turbine response/exhaust restriction/effective CR - and a tuner that knows their stuff ..

Your call .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
    • You have a knack for photography my friend. It makes the 86 look like a complete bucket. The 34 went with you to Europe and back. It's special. (we all feel the same about our 'shitboxes' that every bystander seems to absolutely love)
×
×
  • Create New...