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r33's have an electric hicas unit, no fluids envolved. try running the hicas diagnostic to see if you get an error code. i've also herd of hicas on 33's playing up when they aren't get enough volts/current. another thing, do you know if you still have your speed limit intact (180km/h) if its disabled by cutting the speed signal wire on your ecu that will also stuff hicas around.

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r33's have an electric hicas unit, no fluids envolved. try running the hicas diagnostic to see if you get an error code. i've also herd of hicas on 33's playing up when they aren't get enough volts/current. another thing, do you know if you still have your speed limit intact (180km/h) if its disabled by cutting the speed signal wire on your ecu that will also stuff hicas around.

how do u do the diagnostic tests??.... and how do i check if the speedo is still intact??

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do a search on this forum. there is a tutorial on how to do it and what the codes mean. no not your speedo. the speed signal for the computer, lets your computer know how fast you are going and lets that the hicas ecu knows how fast you are going so it can do its thing. its an easy way to remove you speed cut but it stops you hicas starting up properly.

do you know if there is a hicas lock bar installed?

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do a search on this forum. there is a tutorial on how to do it and what the codes mean. no not your speedo. the speed signal for the computer, lets your computer know how fast you are going and lets that the hicas ecu knows how fast you are going so it can do its thing. its an easy way to remove you speed cut but it stops you hicas starting up properly.

do you know if there is a hicas lock bar installed?

i would have no idea.... how could i find out??

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did you buy the car fairly standard? if so it probably wont have one installed. look under the back of your car at the back of the diff. if there is a bar there insted of a big electric motor (looks like a big windscreen wiper motor) then you have one. again do a search, there are pics around that show what these bars look like and there position. try the diagnostic, it'll give you a better idea

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If you still have HICAS and there's something wrong with it, think seriously about installing a lock bar instead of fixing a faulty HICAS - who needs the computer telling the rear wheels where to point.

You'll then have the HICAS light on all the time (unless you remove the bulb) but at least there'll be a reason for the HICAS light to be on.

As the previous post said there's plenty of info on removing HICAS, but you'll need to source the lock bar first.

Mike

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  • 1 month later...

G'day,

I have a question, would '89/90 Steering wheel on '93 column affect HICAS in any way?

Cos my friend and I replaced '93 steering wheel with '89/90 and the HICAS light came on excatly the way you described.

I'm looking to fix it cos it isn't fun fighting your own car on straight line!

I'm going to have another crack at it, see what happens or I just get lock bar.

Cheers

Grant

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Grant it depends on whether or not the boss is hicas compatable, if it is it will fit on perfectly without fouling on the plastic lugs that sit behind the steering wheel. When you change it over, you will have to reset the HICAS to get rid of the light (i think). There are a few tutorials on here how to do it. You may also have to reset the SRS computer too

The HICAS light will also come on if your brake fluid is low on the R32 or the connections are faulty, or just the connections on the R33 + GTR's so check these before buggering around with this test...

To put HICAS in test mode:

start car in neuteral with the steering wheel in the centre, starting from centre, turn the steeing wheel 20deg (about 10 and 2 o-clock)

left (10)

right

left

right

left

then to centre.

pump the breaks 5 times (do NOT hit the break at any time before this or it will disable hicas test mode). Hicas light will come on and the rear whels will move when you turn the steering wheel.

Put the car in drive (a/t) or first (m/t). Drive slowly foward (under 10kph) in a straight line. 1 of 2 things will hapen after about 10m, 1 the hicas light will flash fast, this indicated all ok and NO faults found. The other is that it will flash a code if a fault is found. The r33 onwards has 2 flashes for the code, the long flash is first digit, short flash is second digit. Codes are:

R32

1- hicas solinoid right

2- '' '' '' '' left

3- cut off valve

4- power steering solinoid

5- speed sensor

6- angle sensor

7- neuteral position sensor

8- park break sensor (a/t) or cluch sensor (m/t)

9- inhibit switch (a/t) or neuteral sensor (m/t)

R33+

11- hicas control unit

12- '' '' motor power supply awol

13- '' '' '' '' output not present

21- speed sensor

22- steering angle sensor awol

23- " " " " " " " " or neuteral

24- rear main sensor input awol

25- " " sub sensor " " " "

31- park break sensor awol

32- inhibit switch (a/t) or neuteral switch awol (m/t)

33- engine speed signal awol.

Edited by Jmaac
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  • 2 months later...

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