Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone my cars just recently been painted matt black and im wondering how to keep it clean, cuz the color duznt have a clear coat which means no protection.. which sort of rules out goin to carlovers cuz the gurney might strip the paint off, would it best just to get a very soft cloth n just dampen it and wipe the car down????

thanks

josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183025-matt-black/
Share on other sites

I would of given it a coat of clear with matting agent in it, then you get the matt finish but you can clean it the same as any other paint finish, dont think anyone will be able to give you a correct answer on your question, as your not suppose to just coat a car in base coat, its going to attract the moisture and get micro blisters after time, clear coat seal's the base and protects it, like I said giving it a coat of matt clear is your best option.

Edited by DriftyR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183025-matt-black/#findComment-3319240
Share on other sites

Yes you need to use a Matt Clear if you want it to last. If you dont you will see marks all over the car from people touching it etc. Moisture will be absorbed by the paint causing the paint to flake off and rust the surface. Its like people driving around with cars in primer, when they go to topcoat the topcoat doesnt adhere due to all the moisture the primer has taken in...

In Speed magazine there was an R33 GTR in matt black, looked tough as, in that article they also say they were changing the paint to a satin finish as marks appear to easy on the flat.

Satin and Matt are different..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183025-matt-black/#findComment-3322995
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...