Installing A Manual Boost Controller

[R338OY]

Installing a manual boost controller on an R33 (stock intercooler)

Things you need:

Pliers

Rag

Small bolt

Cable ties

WD-40 (optional)

Cotton Buds (optional)

Time: 20-30 mins

Difficulty: Easy

For this guide I used a TurboTech (TT) boost controller. I've written it for the guys i've seen posting that aren't sure what manual boost controllers do, or how to install them. It's a small job and not worth getting a mechanic to install if you have the time. There's other threads about manual boost controllers, and also about the TurboTech valve, but i've tried to be more detailed. Feel free to give comments & suggestions.

Here's how to install it:

Locate the factory soleniod on the right side of the engine bay. Here's what it looks like:

First you remove the top hose form the solenoid. It's a bit hard to budge so if you can't do it by hand grab some pliers and wrap a cloth around the hose before you start twisting it off. Once it's loose plug it with a bolt and cable tie it.

Same story with the second hose on the solenoid. Remove it, it's connected to a tee-piece. The tee sits between hoses connecting the intercooler and wastegate actuator. The TT valve will replace the tee-valve here:

There isn't much room to budge the tee out, so instead of risking a cracked or broken hose from excessive jerking just remove the hose connected to the intercooler. I sprayed a little WD-40 to make it easier, and used cotton buds to clean inside after it was off.

Now you just remove the hose from the tee-piece, remove the tee and you'll have a missing space ready for the TT.

Before you install the TT valve between the hoses adjust the bleed screw so you can blow freely into the top left barb. This keeps the boost level safe for initial adjustment.

Install the valve so it looks like this:

Make sure the clamps are fixed firmly to the hoses to prevent air leaking, or hoses popping off under pressure. Cable ties can also be used.

So that's the finished product. The boost adjustment only needs 1/4 or 1/2 turns at a time. It's very sensitive so don't go crazy tightening it. Clockwise increases boost, anti-clockwise reduces it. It's safest to test it initially 'open'.

Make sure when you take it out for a test you have a boost gauge - the valve works without it but it's just safer to recognise boost spike.

Here's a quick list of BAR=PSI conversions so you can accurately read the boost levels. As far as i know stock Skyline turbos should be kept at about an 11psi/0.75BAR limit, as a short spike at higher boost could damage the turbine.

1 BAR = 14.5 psi

0.9 BAR = 13 psi

0.83 BAR = 12 psi

0.75 BAR = 11 psi

0.69 BAR = 10 psi

0.62 BAR = 9 psi

0.55 BAR = 8 psi

0.48 BAR = 7 psi

Enjoy the extra boost!

Notes:

You should test the boost in different gears. I found that 3rd boosts a couple of pounds higher than 2nd. So try different gears throughout the rev range.

Also you'll notice a serious mid-range power increase. That's where this valve does its best work.

A final note- the hoses you connect to the TT valve have small round 'lips' inside which can cause some air restriction. Consider replacing these hoses with hollow ones for improved airflow. I haven't tried it, but i'm assuming it might bring on boost faster. nissansilvia.com has a thread talking about replacing the factory boost hoses.

Good luck!

Edited September 2, 2007 by R338OY

[abu]

Very nice write up man. They should make this a sticky and put it in the right section! (Tutorials / DIY / FAQ?)

Nice work

Edited September 2, 2007 by abu

[uraah]

u forgot to add band aids to ur parts needed list for when u pull on the hose that joins on to the t-piece and u take all the skin off the top of ur knuckes when ur hand fies off and bashes in to the top of that radiator support. yeah it did hurt!

[cheez]

i havent installed a t-piece in my beast coz been using a r32 actuator,

but i was always under the impression that all that was necessary was to connect the t-piece where the factory solenoid is?

isnt it the same sorta deal? the t-piece replacing the factory solenoid in controlling the pressure?

[R338OY]

Very nice write up man. They should make this a sticky and put it in the right section! (Tutorials / DIY / FAQ?)

Nice work

Yeh i'm gonna see about getting it in the DIY section...Thx

[R338OY]

u forgot to add band aids to ur parts needed list for when u pull on the hose that joins on to the t-piece and u take all the skin off the top of ur knuckes when ur hand fies off and bashes in to the top of that radiator support. yeah it did hurt!

Yeh, take a look at my hand in the third photo...

[R338OY]

i havent installed a t-piece in my beast coz been using a r32 actuator,

but i was always under the impression that all that was necessary was to connect the t-piece where the factory solenoid is?

isnt it the same sorta deal? the t-piece replacing the factory solenoid in controlling the pressure?

Yeh spot on, the boost controller does exactly that. The spring and ball bearing inside blocks/leaks air to the wastegate actuator at a psi level you want to set, rather than the factory system (on R33's) keeping it between 5-7psi only.

I'm running about 11psi but i was told the factory turbo can take up to 14psi ( ), but no more.

[R338OY]

Oh yeh i found that inside the tube from intercooler to boost controller is a small brass/copper restrictor that can be pushed out with a screwdriver. I took mine out and boost comes on stronger, earlier, though i didn't notice a massive difference.

Anyone done the same?

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

i have the same boost controller which im planning on using on R32 GTR.. do i just remove the two lines going to the stock solenoid and plug it into the manual boost controller?? which line carries pressure for intercooler?? any thoughts??

[pup_07]

just double checking coz i have the controller that goes into the cabin...this still would be the same set up wouldnt it?

mines a turbo smart controller