Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well firstly the sr20 is a great four cylinder engine, that is also in other cars like the silvia, 180, gt-ir etc... so if you ever wanted parts i believe that it will be cheap and easy to find. Plus the 200sx's I believe were Australian delivered too.

they are beautiful cars, especially that one that Letty drives in Fast and the Furious!

hope that helps Ambz

:)

dunno - look ugly if you ask me without a big ass kit :)

nice and fast 'coz they're light - the SR20DET is a great 4cyl engine... and very mod friendly. Can make it do 200rwkw+ and be faster than the skylines if you throw a few grand at it.

go look in the 4 sale forums here..there are a few that looked ok over the last few weeks.

those silvias are my favourite (after a 180). They're the ones with the strongest engines and respond very well to mild tunes. Them ones are also easiest to maintain as it was a local model, so any panel beating, repair, servicing, spares are all locally available and most ppl know how to work on em.

With the right bodykit they look pretty aggro, and the back is sleek as. Any mod that works on an s13 will work on it, and the interior is very similar to the s15. Best of both worlds.

I say go for it. If you have the $$$ get a strawberry face s14 mmmm s15 front... s14 rear... result... sex.

S14 serries II *BLEECH*

no further comment they are O#G4Zm1c

anyway i want to see wa hybrid s14 2 front on an s15 rear :)

ambz not a fan of the cromies on the purple one and some of the kits look shit the car looks sweet in stock form maybe a slightly different front bar not vielside styles and some side skirts

:)

yeah that fang bar looks shite... but i can't find a pic of one without it... oh wait, I got the article on my 180's conversion kit... it had a pic... hold up...

yogi, press the "post reply" button in the right hand corner of the post. It'll allow you to attach stuff. If you wanna link an image type

[ IMG ]http://www.domain.com/imae.jpg[/IMG]

s15_fronts.jpg

gunna take me for a ride down chapz ambz when you get it?

go the purple looks phat...

I've got a nice twin plate sitting here when you need it.

buy one pretty much stock or at least engine.. make sure it hasn't been thrashed but the SR20DET's pretty much bulletproof... With exhaust, power FC and cooler can make decent power...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...