Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone else had problems with their front tyres scalloping(wearing unevenly, numerous flatspots on inside)? I took my car in to have it checked out at Pedders, as i thought the noise was a wheelbearing, and they told me it was actually that my fronts were scalloping badly on the inside, which normally means a collapsed shock or two, but strangely mine were fine. He then put it down to cheap tyres, and that my wheels he'd never seen on a skyline before so they may not have been suitable for it (but i think he'd never seen NA wheels before).

Long story short, one set of new wheels and tyres later, and it's starting to happen again. Anyone had this before? or should i just head back there, with the suspension report and suggest maybe they got it wrong, and ask what they'll do to fix it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183516-scalloping-fronts/
Share on other sites

well, they're the ones that were on the car when it came across. so presumably the original shocks. It'd only done 56k at the time, and they've never given me trouble so i never considered a problem.

Is there an easy way to check the camber (i know comparatively little when it comes to susp.)?

Is there an easy way to check the camber (i know comparatively little when it comes to susp.)?

it would have been the perfect opportunity while your car was at pedders to get them to read your camber settings. I am surprised that they didnt unless it is on your report? its pretty difficult to tell what camber you are running with the naked eye especially if its only 1 or 2 degrees. if you are running too much negative camber (which is good for handling but bad for tyre wear) your tyres will wear on the inside.

but that doesnt explain the scalloping effect. I would get a second opinion from someone like Fulcrum Suspension.

well camber is not adjustable on a 33 GTS so forget about that. neither is caster. they are both worth checking purely to make sure nothing is bent, but they cannot be adjusted. I would say most likely this is being caused by incorrect toe or possibly a bent suspension arm. how does the car feel to drive?

same as it always did really, i've never noticed anything different, slight pull to the left when you're not holding the whell maybe. I did have a low speed impact a while back (rearended a motorcyclist at an intersection) - maybe that did something.

Are these Fulcrum guys good? i've never heard of them before.

i got the same problem. i had to take my shocks out when going over the pits and found my shocks are rooted. can be compressed by hand. this was about 2 months after pedders said they were in perfect working order. go somewhere good. a lot of bogans work at pedders.

same as it always did really, i've never noticed anything different, slight pull to the left when you're not holding the whell maybe. I did have a low speed impact a while back (rearended a motorcyclist at an intersection) - maybe that did something.

Are these Fulcrum guys good? i've never heard of them before.

you've probably never heard of Murray Coote before though either :D

As previousley mentioned worn shocks will wear the tyres like this, another cause could be hard braking as the wheel alignment changes under hard braking. You can eliminate the wear by rotating the tyres at regular intervals (if you have the same size wheels & tyres front & rear or have the tyres turned on the rims to swap side to side if you have directional tyres)

Carlos

im an aligner by trade and i just fixed this on mine it was worn out caster rod bushes and i completely f*(ked the inside edges.neway i would get a alignment done asap when was the last time u had one done they should be done at least once a year or at least when you get new tyres

another cause could be hard braking as the wheel alignment changes under hard braking.

I doubt it would be that, my car's never seen a track or similar, the closest it gets to hard braking is jaunts along the Ocean Rd and surrounds :nyaanyaa:

i just fixed this on mine it was worn out caster rod bushes and i completely f*(ked the inside edges

Yeah, i'm planning on an alignment asap. What did the caster rod bush replacement cost?

I doubt it would be that, my car's never seen a track or similar, the closest it gets to hard braking is jaunts along the Ocean Rd and surrounds :)

Yeah, i'm planning on an alignment asap. What did the caster rod bush replacement cost?

well i did the work myself at work n got trade and it was about 100 bucks but i know the guys at pedders so i got really well looked after i think retail is 190ish but i wouldnt qoute me.good luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...