Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys..

Just got back in my car after its been parked for about 3 hours and had fluid all over the ground.. Id say about as much as a gatorade bottle spilled over the ground..

It seems to be comming from the aircon area, just under the front cabin, however the aircon is off? everytime the car is running it starts to pump out massive amounts of it.. and then slowly seeps out when its stopped.

the fluid is yellowish (like orange juice) in color and slightly oily.. its similar to water so Im assuming it must be the aircon however it has not been on for a fair while.. not since sunday??

I checked all the other fluids and they are at maximum level, it does look similar to radiator fluid and smell similar but the fluid in the radiator is not dropping. The radiator fluid is also orange/brown :S

Should i take it easy and assume its the aircon? never happened before so perhaps the aircon has been blocked?

if anyone could help would be great...

Thanks

Yeah it cools..

The coolant is japanese coolant.. Shipped from japan its red/brown and fades with time.. its only got 8000km on it.

Any way to check the refrigerant?

It slightly smells like coolant, and is slightly oilly.. so im confused why its not the full on smell.. its just very faint..

The fluid is overfilled by the mechanic .. so could it be overflow? why its over flowing now i wouldnt know

Yeah it cools..

The coolant is japanese coolant.. Shipped from japan its red/brown and fades with time.. its only got 8000km on it.

Any way to check the refrigerant?

It slightly smells like coolant, and is slightly oilly.. so im confused why its not the full on smell.. its just very faint..

The fluid is overfilled by the mechanic .. so could it be overflow? why its over flowing now i wouldnt know

Is the car an auto? If it is check your radiator overflow bottle does not have oil sitting on the top. The autos pass their gearbox oil through the bottom tank of the radiator for cooling. If a leak forms inside the tank you will get oil in your water which is likely to spill out into your overflow bottle. Be very afraid!

Its coolant and one of the pipes has let lose.. seems the clamp may have come undone.. lets hope i dont need to replace the silicone piping..

Unfortunately have to drive home.. Now I no I should have got roadside assistance..

Lets just hope I dont run into any problems.. Ill try seal the join with gum or something for a temp fix .. lets hope it works for the time being

hole.jpg

The silicone tubes are located here behind the engine.. anyone know where to find a replacement?

Edited by DECIM8

This is screwed! There was a hole in my pipe which runs off the engine, yes the metal pipe .. about 1-2mm diameter.. I dont know if this part is replaceable..

For the mean time (how its prob been running since i bought it) we cut the hose end off and pushed and clamped over the hole, its holding and I have presure back in the radiator again thankfully.

Anyone got a solution which doesnt involve removing the engine to hot weld it? Anyone got any idea wtf the part is?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...