Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm planning to do that on my S1 33 (with the clear SKYLINE panel). I've got a can of touch-up paint made up, the plan is to spray the whole 'garnish', then use a sharp blade to gently scratch off the paint over the top of the letters. Then, I'm going to dremel out the back of the garnish and mount some LED's in there. These will be wired to come on with my taillights I think... I may go with an extra switch (but still hooked into the tail-lights so I don't leave them on by accident and flatten my battery)... we'll see!

I'll post up some pics when it's all done.

  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You gotta love guys you do a favour for than get smart cause it was late. Every one want's something for free don't they!

I think it also looks like a great mod! I'm going to look into it a bit more. Doesn't look to difficult. Hope your finger gets better! You are a Dr anyway so you should be fine. lol

Yeah I know, Zilch is a bastard :D STILL hasn't paid for the whole thing yet!

I installed another one just last night too on a white 33, it's the first pic in my sig... goes red on brakes...

I'm starting to think about different colours and designs too... Got a lot of ideas in my head and a few schematics drawn up, but it all costs money unfortunately...

Yeah I know, Zilch is a bastard :huh: STILL hasn't paid for the whole thing yet!

I installed another one just last night too on a white 33, it's the first pic in my sig... goes red on brakes...

I'm starting to think about different colours and designs too... Got a lot of ideas in my head and a few schematics drawn up, but it all costs money unfortunately...

Hey champ...heard u live in Syd...i know this isnt the right forum to be asking...but where bouts in syd are u? and how much for 33?

  • 3 weeks later...
With the LEDs, do you need to add some resistors into the mix? Just remembering how I blew a LED in my air-con unit after 3 seconds :D. Oops...

Absolutely! If you know the specs for the LED's you're using, here is a little tool to calculate what size resistors you should use: http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

  • 2 weeks later...

LOL Doofy, well if I must... For the record Doof and I are good friends, we're just slagging each other(happens a lot)

I came round a corner too fast in Neutral Bay last week, straight into an RBT.

Got a stern talking to and while they were running my license, rego etc. One of the senior constables comes up and says, that's a real cool idea you have on the back there with that light up panel but I don't think you should have the blue LEDs. I politely informed that some R33s came like this from factory only they were green to which he was pretty stumped. He then decided that it still wasn't acceptable for the road and that only red was allowed :P It's still pink however :teehee:

They also tried to defect my gauges but thankfully never asked me to pop the bonnet as then I'd be screwed. Got off without a speeding fine as well :P

So my advice, just go Red, it looks mad anyway, especially on a black or similarly dark coloured car.

If you want to change yours Zilch, I can do it for a lot less cause we already have the facia, it's painted, and the mounting points for the electronis too... Plus I can re-use the one in yours too...

I can switch it around so it's red, then more red on brakes, or you can get really tricky with the same type of circuit, but swap out the blue for something else... maybe orange or ultra violet? :P Hell... I can even get colour changing ones if you REALLY want to get in trouble :teehee:

PS: Come to the meet tonight :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...