Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

My car is pretty stock, came from Japan about 4 weeks ago.

Only engine modifications it has is a back exhaust and pod filter.

Basically there is no rev limiter? I have rev'd it to 8,000rpm on occasions and backed off as it didn't stop at a limiter?

Red line starts at 7,500 if I am not wrong, and it should be limited at 7,800 if I am not mistaken?

I have spoken to a few other RB20 owners and they have also had the same issue. I guess the question I am asking is, did R32 RB20DET come out with a rev limiter?

I haven't checked the ECU yet, but I doubt it would have been altered as the car is very stock.. But what would I be looking for that would show the rev limiter has been removed?

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Abu

Edited by abu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184518-rb20det-rev-limiter/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

my mates rb20 revs past 8000 rpm too! he is scared to over rev it! he thinks there was no limiter so 8200 sounds possible

Yeah its very weird!

I usually rev my cars hard, but I actually really like this R32 and I'm looking after it haha

I don't want to be reving it past past recommended redline!

Has anyone experienced or seen a RB20 with a rev limiter, on standard ECU?

Edited by abu

It may be "apparently" higher because the spring on the tacho needle is getting a bit "soft", and letting the needle spin further than it should.

I've noticed the tacho readout on my Wolf handset is less than the tacho in the instrument cluster.

yep mine was 8,200 standard auto ecu

bashed it every monday night for 3 months making 230rwkw

no probs

pretty sure its still going now

8,200 far out. I would never rev it that hard.. well..

It struggles to rev kinda past 5,500 - 6,000 rpm due to being on standard turbo, stock intcooler and only having a cat back exhaust.

Once I get the turbo back exhaust on, cooler and bigger turbo on, with the WOLF tuned then I will rev it to that ;)

It may be "apparently" higher because the spring on the tacho needle is getting a bit "soft", and letting the needle spin further than it should.

I've noticed the tacho readout on my Wolf handset is less than the tacho in the instrument cluster.

Oh thats interesting..

No idea man, wont be able to check that until I get my WOLF in and tuned I guess, or I guess until it gets onto a dyno.

Edited by abu

7,800 is the factory,

mine had an auto box now a manual box, hasnt ever changed....i have it chiped and its still the same only the speed limited was put a fair bit higher.

it shouldnt have a problem reving that high even on stock turbo....just that you wont get stuff all power up there, so its kinda pointless to rev it that high. if you have an aftermarket turbo then go for it.

I can confirm this also.

the standard tacho is inaccurate. there is indeed a 7500 rpm limit with a hard cut at 7800. the tacho is almost 10% out. so 7500 + 10% = 8250 ;)

Is that right. Whats the reason for it being out, like where they released out from factory?

I haven't managed to actually hit limiter, even in the wet when having a bit of fun, but I tend to be cautious about how high its reving.

7,800 is the factory,

mine had an auto box now a manual box, hasnt ever changed....i have it chiped and its still the same only the speed limited was put a fair bit higher.

it shouldnt have a problem reving that high even on stock turbo....just that you wont get stuff all power up there, so its kinda pointless to rev it that high. if you have an aftermarket turbo then go for it.

Ohh ok thanks man.

Yeah no point reving it that hard unless you get power that high, which you wont on standard turbo. I don't tend to rev it past 6,500rpm as it is now as it beings to struggle.

But once I get it tuned with the WOLF I will get the limiter set to about 7,800 rpm.

With my standard ecu, mine hits the limite at 8300 but my RSM says 7600ish at the time dont hold it long enough to write it down ;)

8,300 rpm damn, thats high. Weird how they are out so much hey?

LOL @ dont hold it long enough to write it down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...