Jump to content
SAU Community

Problems With R33 Gts-t

Finny

By Finny,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Finny Community Regular

Finny

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

I am having a few issues with my R33.

When I plant my foot and rev it to about 5000rpm the car will pop flames like its running REALLY rich and as it continues to rev to 7000rpm the pops happen more and more.

so basicly you know when you back down a gear in a car with a big exhaust and it burbles and pops flames well mine does that but more vigourisly while I am driving it hard.

I leaned it out heaps in the high revs on my SAFC and that seemed to clear it up a little bit but the car started to ping due to being too lean so I had to richen it back up again.

I also notised that my SAFC was displaying 100% air flow at around 5500rpm and onwards... but I didn't think I would be maxing out my air flow meter with the small ammount of mods that I have, any one know what the stock air flow meter is good for?

I am assuming that what is happening is the AFM is reading 100% air flow and the ECU is going ohh crap dump fuel but I just don't understand how I could be maxing the AFM.. I have heard that they are good for atleast 250RWKW and my car is definatly not making that much power but I am running stock ECU with SAFCII.

Any ideas???

Edited by Finny
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184526-problems-with-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites
Finny Community Regular

Finny

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Also a friend of mine has an R34GTT and that made 172RWKW on dyno with very little mods and his SAFCII was displaying 98% air flow at the highest which he thought was a little worrying. When I first got my car with stock side mount ect. I could get it up to about 96% when pulling it hard up a hill in 3rd at around 12psi but now I have FMIC and a few other things the car is easilly hitting 100% AFM in 1st gear let alone 3rd.

I really thing the only way I can resulve this is with a PowerFC... which is anoying because its going to cost me heaps to get it tune up as I live in Tas.

Thing is I can't understand why I need a PowerFC when all I have is stock turbo, FMIC, free flowing 3" exhaust from turbo, pod and thats basiclly it I would assume that stock ECU would easily handle thoes mods.

Coil packs seem fine and spark plugs are iridiums gapped at 0.8mm.

Finny Community Regular

Finny

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Ok so that means Z32 AFM for me but the problem is, I have an SAFC but not a PFC, I assume you can get a Z32 to work with a SAFC but wont that just translate the Z32 signal into a stock AFM signal then feed it to the ECU meaning the limit will still exist due to voltage range??? I don't really understand it that well.

But I assume I need a Z32 AFM and a PFC... so I am looking at about $3000 to fix this one problem :'(

I might as well add some more money to that and get an RB26DETT half cut and do away with the RB25DET :S

Edited by Finny
BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

Posted
Posted (edited)

http://autospeed.com.au/cms/A_2424/article.html

This was in a recent thread. It's a really good idea rather replacing the afm you have a bypass around the afm and tune the safc proportional to the new volume of air flow entering the motor.

Edited by BAMR33
The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

I'm pretty suer a SAFC accomodates the Z32 afm, and can translate the signal to the Factory ECU correctly. So I doubt you'll need a power fc.

But you're going to get a better result with the powerfc anyway. Maybe look into selling your safc and getting a PFC anyway?

Aif Collaborator

Aif

Posted
Posted
FMIC, free flowing 3" exhaust from turbo, pod and thats basiclly it I would assume that stock ECU would easily handle thoes mods.

did u change ur plugs with ur FMIC? my r33 broad minded persontered like a bitch when i had the wronge plugs in after my FMIC install. and i though cars only shot flames when there's no cat in the exaust. may be wronge but its cheaper to check these b4 buy a PFC.

good luck

Aif

sl33py Mentor

sl33py

Posted
Posted

Also make sure it's not just your coilpacks arcing. Take the plastic cover off the top of the engine, drive around hard at night until it's making the noises, then pull over and (carefully) look into the engine to try to see little sparks grounding themselves to the block. If it does it at stationary, it might be easier to recreate.

Finny Community Regular

Finny

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I'm pretty suer a SAFC accomodates the Z32 afm, and can translate the signal to the Factory ECU correctly. So I doubt you'll need a power fc.

But you're going to get a better result with the powerfc anyway. Maybe look into selling your safc and getting a PFC anyway?

I know this but what I want to know is say (I dont know the voltage ranges so this is an estimate) stock AFM goes from 0v-5v and 5v is say 500cfm of air now if a Z32 AFM was say 0-5v as well but 5v was 1000cfm then what would happen is if you have a Z32 with a SAFC then when you hit 500zfm the Z32 AFM may only read say 3v but the SAFC converts that to the old AFM singnal so it spits out 5v to the ECU so there for there would be absolutly no difference in cfm limit.

I am just wondering if I am correct in saying this.

ALSO...

AFM bypass, I have known about this for ages but this will also not fix my problem.....

ok I give my self a 50% AFM bypass so that 50% of air is going into the AFM and 50% is bypassing... I set my SAFC to add 50% to the AFM reading. AFM gets to 50% air flow SAFC blows it to 100% air flow and you hit max air flow, You may be able to remove the limit on the AFM but the ECU will still be seeing 100% Air Flow and I doubt that it will have maps for above what the AFM can read so uselss.

Only was I can make this work is by doing this, Getting for example 740cc injectors then doing a 50% AFM bypass and then I wouldn't even need to use my SAFC because the Injectors are pushing 50% more petrol but the AFM is reading 50% less air than its really gettings so that works out perfect. But I think this would screw up your timing etc.

I know some one who has done the AFM bypass as he has a Twin TB NA RB30DE and the AFM only reads on one TB, he also has neerly double sized injectors to match and some SAFC tuning to get it perfect and he only sees around 40% AirFlow even though he is making around 170RWKW.

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted
I leaned it out heaps in the high revs on my SAFC and that seemed to clear it up a little bit but the car started to ping due to being too lean so I had to richen it back up again.

holy shit, I just read this - this is madness. Your engine will die!

You need a Wideband o2 sensor and also need to know what you are doing!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...