Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok here is the sitcho..

CAR:R32 gtst

i recently had to get a 2 inch temporary cat back little system cauz nobody could help me with stock catback.. but anyways.. after getting the system made up the guy at the place started telling me that my 3" is too big and how every zorst system needs back pressure.. im currently runnin 3" all the way through 3" cat and a cannon on the back..

is he just talkin shit to sell me new exhaust or should i buy a muffler??

BTW: anyone needing to get a EPA done and has 3" cat and needs to borrow 2" catback for r32 gtst pm me..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184679-exhaust-questions/
Share on other sites

Back pressure helps for a smooth idle and response when driving around the street, but for gaining mid range and top end power the bigger (sensibly) the better and 3" is pretty much right on for the rb20. The muffler shop guy is probably just use to dealing with NA cars. The cat and mufflers will give you all the back pressure you need.

im just curious has anyone had their car dyno'd before and after getting a new exhaust system fitted? if so what increase in performance did you get? i would assume other work done to the car would affect this figure aswell so anyone with a near stock gtr done this?

It doesnt on a turbo car, even on a N/A car, its just that people with N/A cars feel the "loss" more because they put on the exhaust and dont get a tune to compensate for the cars altered behaviour :kiss:

Backpressure & turbos = bad.

i work for an exhaust company that designs exhausts for power stations and earth moving equipment boats and trucks.... and i'll tell you first hand the less backpressure u can get the better.... all engines have a maximum allowed backpressure per h2o pressure drop..... but yeah anyone thats says you need back pressure is miles off..... put it this way the less backpressure u have the easier it is for a turbo to spool.... the reason they say there is too big is because once you go beyond a certain point there is too much area and not enough flow to move that amount of air so in cause starts causing backpressure.... so yeah 3" would be ideal for an r32.... the most ideal is 2.75" or 70mm tube work.....

Edited by redevil

There is a real science to exhaust tuning and the whole thing is a bunch of compromises...

Here is a blurb from another forum that is interesting reading...

'Ok, this explanation may be MORE information than some want to consider but...

First of all, I MUST say that backpressure is NEVER a good thing in the exhaust. By backpressure I mean resistance to flow creating more pressure for the exhaust exiting the exhaust valves to work against. Ideally you would have a vacuum at the exhaust valve and in fact that can be created with a properly tuned exhaust system. Our exhaust manifolds are NEVER going to accomplish this so my statement is for illustration only. But, consider each phase of an exhaust. If the manifold pumps into a restrictive catalytic converter (backpressure) is it going to flow more or less? Easy, less. If the cat flows into a restrictive Y pipe, resonator, silencer(s) kinked pipes, chambered muffler, obstructions, air damns, etc... each part adds up and the engine cannot exhale efficiently.

Now, reducing backpressure is one component of a complex system and is in fact interdependent with the other variables. Velocity is very important. Heat, accoustics, aerodynamics, shape, volume and transitions are all important parts of the equation.

To "simplify"... let me attempt to illustrate what happens in a multi-cylinder exhaust system.

As an exhaust valve opens it "vents" the hot under pressure exhaust gases from the cylinder. These gases have mass and speed and therefore enertia. The speed is dependent upon many things not the least of which is heat energy. If you look at the outside bend of a header on an engine under load you will often see the "glow" of this energy being "lost" as it makes the transition.

The purpose for ANY performance exhaust is to reduce the pressure at the exhaust port especially during the end of the exhaust event for that port. A really GOOD system can actually create a vacuum. This is called scavenging and it improves removal of unburnable exhaust gas from the cylinder allowing more fresh air/fuel charge to enter during the intake event as well as reducing the pumping loss of a piston working against port pressure.

There are several ways to reduce this pressure including "tuned" length runners which "tune" the pressure waves to create the above effect... but only for a given RPM window.

One of the MOST confusing realities about modifying exhaust systems is the usual loss of low RPM power/torque. Looking at a stock exhaust manifold or system logic would state that increasing capacity "HAS TO" increase flow and continuing this concept... POWER. So WHY would a better LOOKING part hurt low RPM power/torque? The answer is that the stock stuff flows POORLY both WAYS!!! Better flowing pipes flow better BOTH WAYS!!!

When the exhaust event first starts (when the valve first opens) there is very high pressure in the chamber. This pressure flows out the POOR flowing manifolds just fine at low RPM. As the exhaust event is nearing its end the cylinder pressure is much lower and the poor flowing manifold acts to reduce reverse flow from other cylinders firing into the manifold. Installing a better flowing manifold CAN (not necessarily will) allow exhaust pressure from an adjacent port to flow back into a port at the end of its event and therefore charging that cylinder with additional exhaust pressure and reducing its potential to breath in a fresh charge.

Think of it this way. With 4 exhaust ports collected into one exhaust manifold, if one of those ports is at the end of its exhaust event and has relatively low pressure AND one of the other ports is just starting its exh event and has very high pressure, the high pressure will try to back flow into the first port.

This same idea applies to X and Y pipes. They act to create a high flow one way check valve that reduces reversion and therefore pressure before them. Properly designed they increase scavenging at low RPMs without restricting high RPM flow. This is why they help low RPM torque. This also applies to header merge collector theory/design

With a large volume collector the gasses slow dramatically, pressure spikes and YES it can and does definitely flow backwards from the high pressure collector to the low pressure (relatively speaking) ports at the end of their exhaust event or at overlap.

With a precision merge collector you can actually create a vacuum under the same conditions as the flow moves quickly through the small volume collector and "pulls" on the other primary. These conditions occur mostly at low to mid rpm and contribute to the old wives tale of an engine needing backpressure. Engines need vacuum in the exhaust!

People think they need huge pipes but in fact large pipe is the biggest mistake made by most. Consider that the GS400 is rated 300hp/310tq and has a single 2.35" center pipe... and that my LS400 is rated 290hp/300tq and has a single 1.95" center pipe... it stands to reason that a single 2.25" pipe can support 300hp. So, using dual 2.25"s mean that you could support 600hp, not optimally but it would do it.'

Ok, got all that?? I had to read it a couple of times too!! :unsure:

yes yes well and good, but does that relate to turbo charged cars?

i understand that, but dont turboed cars work slightly differently..

also i was thinking one dark and stormy night....what if you could create a vortex in your exhaust then that would create less turbulence and more vacumm.

but maybe thats been done already

The same principals still apply...

The optimum amount of back pressure is none.

Tube sizes are still a trade off between between maintaining gas velocity and restriction(back pressure).

Turbo engines only differ in that they have a restriction in the exhaust system called a turbo.

Creates significant back pressure in the exhaust manifold and chops the exhaust pulses up finely so you can't use the scavenging effect.

A 3" is tried and proven.

Redevil is on to it.

As the man said, "a 2.25" tube will support 300hp...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...