Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a r33 gtst. do u think its worth getting coilovers instead of normal kingsprings

i was quoted $400 for kingsprings+labour..but im thinking if i get adjustable coilovers it will save me trouble having to replace them when i get canaried.

i found this link of coilovers

http://www.raceinspired.com/pc-8734-20-d2-...-1995-1998.aspx

what do use think,,i cant decide lol

anyone got experience, or know which would be more worth it

thx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184908-should-i-get-coilovers/
Share on other sites

definantly get coilovers, maybe not the ones you have linked, all i can say is get what you pay for

why is it more worth it though?

is this because u can adjust it really low and looks better,,or because it performs better.

i dont really care about handling because im happy with the handling my car has already and thats just stock springs.

??

Yes.

I made the mistake of just buying dampers, thinking I could get springs later. In the end, I ended up getting coilovers as it was hard to find springs at the exact rate and height I wanted, to match the dampers and my desired ride height.

i dont really care about handling because im happy with the handling my car has already and thats just stock springs.

But if you change your suspension components your handling characteristics change. Putting in aftermarket suspension won't necessarily make your car handle better. Putting in heavily lowered springs by themselves can, and frequently does, make the car handle worse.

This is not to suggest that coilovers are only for track use, but if you're only doing it to lower your car, it's probably a waste of money as springs and shocks would be cheaper and probably give you a better ride for street driving. The only advantage to coilovers is the adjustability factor and if you're not 'bothered about performance' you may as well go for a properly matched spring/shock combination and save some coin.

Edited by baron25

I take my car to the track now and then, and I like a rigid feeling suspension... so I'm running a stiffer spring and adjustable dampening strut (street and track)... I've also lowered the car about an inch. If you know the right setting and you don't want to change it, there's no reason in the world to get adjustable coilovers (and technically a spring over a strut is a coilover, as its a spring "coil over" a strut).

If you're not the type of person that needs his suspension adjusted every month for different tracks etc then there's no reason why you'd need em. I find most people do it just to keep up with the Jones'. The added benefit of staying on spring n strut setups is that its legal, adjustable coilovers are a bit tricky to make legal due to their adjustability.

That said finding the suspension setup that's just right can be difficult at first, talk to a very good suspension shop and they should be able to sort you out.

I would have to agree with funky. Only thing is if you get the kings springs you will find that they will bottom out quite easily on things like speedbumps with stock shocks.

I'm running kings lows with stock gtr shocks at the moment, was advised before I put them in that it might be an issue but as usual had to learn the hard way. Looking at just replacing the shock with a set of koni or bilstein as the spring setup I quite like.

James.

Edited by heller44

i dont realy care about track use,,,the only reason i want adjustablity is so i can easily adjust it when i got canaried. if i get kingsprings i have to pay extra labour in taking the springs off and replacing the stocks,,then changing them back after i get cleared. such a hassle

hey mate if i was you i will either get Coilover or the package from Sydneykid.

the reason is that the ride with just spring will change. It is accually becomes bad, and when driving above the limits

especially in a high preformance car you need handling and i know it is not track

Also most KIDS who have accidents and die on these road are because they have crap suspension.

Try Driving on the hume highway (bass hill) with just king springs........Trust me kidney Failure.

the only reason i want adjustablity is so i can easily adjust it when i got canaried. if i get kingsprings i have to pay extra labour in taking the springs off and replacing the stocks,,then changing them back after i get cleared. such a hassle

Ummm.... just playing devil's advocate here, but exactly why are you planning on a defect? Why not just go legal? It still costs money to get a defect cleared, and chances are they'll find other things to be fixed for the RWC too.

the reason is that the ride with just spring will change. It is accually becomes bad, and when driving above the limits

especially in a high preformance car you need handling and i know it is not track

Hit the nail on the head there, which is why you don't buy just springs - you need the matched shocks

go the SK package.

i dont realy care about track use,,,the only reason i want adjustablity is so i can easily adjust it when i got canaried. if i get kingsprings i have to pay extra labour in taking the springs off and replacing the stocks,,then changing them back after i get cleared. such a hassle

well if you plan to get canaried then you shouldn't get adjustable coilovers as they're a defectable item, even if they're set to a legal ride height. to clear this you need to take the whole strut out and put standard ones in anyway. So either way you'll have to do it :laugh:

Since you are getting springs and shocks, I would really strongly suggest the sydneykid bilstein spring and shock packages in the groupbuy section, they are matched nicely valving and spring weight for your car, as well as having circlip height adjustment. If you can get ahold of it.

Value for money mate.

king springs, plus the cost of a set of bilsteins or koni's to match will set you back the same amount of a bit more and still be not as nice to drive.

personal opinion though.

james.

(I've got kings lows and going koni's very soon)

well if you plan to get canaried then you shouldn't get adjustable coilovers as they're a defectable item, even if they're set to a legal ride height. to clear this you need to take the whole strut out and put standard ones in anyway. So either way you'll have to do it :laugh:

Mate i dunno where you got your information from

but when coilover are set to a legal height they are not defectable

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...