Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright so atm i have a r33 gts-25t with upgraded exhaust, air intake (pod and cold air box), manual boost controller set to 10psi....I am gettin a tax refund of basically 3000 and want to spend it on the car. I know i want a fmic but after that im a little lots. Cant decide between new ecu (and what type),fuel system, ignition system, suspension, clutch etc etc.....Where would be a good place to start with this kind of money????

Any advice would be gr8ly apprechiated : )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184974-need-serious-advice/
Share on other sites

Alright so atm i have a r33 gts-25t with upgraded exhaust, air intake (pod and cold air box), manual boost controller set to 10psi....I am gettin a tax refund of basically 3000 and want to spend it on the car. I know i want a fmic but after that im a little lots. Cant decide between new ecu (and what type),fuel system, ignition system, suspension, clutch etc etc.....Where would be a good place to start with this kind of money????

Any advice would be gr8ly apprechiated : )

i think FMIC, ecu and fuel pump maybe the way to go - but im a n00b myself

OR

u can invest the 3k and grow it into 10k and then spend on the car - but not as much fun :unsure:

Best advice:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=66556

Read that, there are several links to some GREAT threads about first mods, what to do/not and so on.

If you spend the time reading you'll get some idea from that no problem in the world

I'd go with a FMIC kit, along with a bigger fuel pump. (WALBRO - $160 delivered, or BOSCH 040 - $180odd).

Then I'd upgrade turbo, something like a HKSGTRS, or HKS2535.

After that an after market ECU (WOLF3d, MICROTECH, PFC).

That should get you about 240rwkw if not more, after the ECU is installed and tuned.

After that uprade the injectors if you want to go sort of over 250rwkw.

If your going to get it into the 200rwkw power bracket, I would also upgrade to an after market clutch. (EXEDY 5 PUK BRASS BUTTON) personal choice again.. Can take up to 300rwkw.

Then you can go a head and choose some coilovers/suspension, plenty in the for sale section.

2 way LSD if you want, depending what your doing with the car.

Edited by abu

Sorry forgot one thing also.

If you go with a bigger turbo and PFC, you will need to get a bigger AFM. A Z32 AFM (air flow meter) will be sufficient.

If your going to a WOLF3d or a MICROTECH ECU, they use an inbuilt MAP sensor, which means you can take the AFM out all together.

Thanks,

Abu

It depends how much power your really after.... With $3000 you could buy alot of mods!! lol,

I would recommend:

FMIC

GTR Fuel Pump or Borch/Walbro

GTR Injectors

Splitfire Coilpacks

R34 Hi Flow Turbo or something within your range

Extreme/Heavy Duty Clutch

Coilovers

Aftermarket ECU (WOLF3D)

After getting all that, get your car tuned and it will have alot more power!! :D

Edited by r32matt

get every thing else first before the turbo. eg injectors, FMIC, ECU, fuel pump, etc. there would be nothing worse than getting a turbo and ecu and paying to get it tuned to find out that it cant be tunned to full potential because of say, injectors maxing out.

How much would i be looking at for one of those two turbos?

GTRS is about $1300 new from forum traders.

HKS2535 I seen pop up on the forums for about $1,100 odd 2nd hand.

I think there is a GTRS for sale for about $1,200 in the for sale section?

I noticed most of u guys are putting ecu right down low on the list....Are they not needed until most mods are carried out?

no, without the upgraded ecu how are you going to control those bigger injectors, and the increased flow and pressure from a bigger turbo.

Alrighht well for now the shopping list looks like this...

Power fc.

fmic.

fuel pump

Spark plugs

gtr injectors

Is this a good combo? am i missing anything vital? and what sort of power should i expect.....

the cars mods would list the above plus turbo back exhaust, filter +cold air box and boost set to 10psi.....

I noticed most of u guys are putting ecu right down low on the list....Are they not needed until most mods are carried out?

ECU isn't really required till you upgrade turbo.

I say this because stock turbo can't really go over 13psi, so your safe to run about 12 - 13psi which is find on stadnard ECU with support mods (FMIC, pump, etc)

Once you go bigger turbo, basically it can obviously take more then 13psi, and you will want to run more.

Increase flow will make more power on lower boost compared to your stock turbo.

Once you get to this point the best thing to do is get the car tuned. A tune will show best results/gains in performance and is also the safest thing for the engine.

hi nikr33turb. i have gone down this road before, and can offer some advice.

atm i have a turbo, injectors, and ignition system just sitting in my garage.

but have found that i need to upgrade my ecu to run them.

from my research the power fc seems to be the best and cheapest ecu.

definitley get the ecu first, it is the base of your upgrades

a little over 200rwkw. upgrade the turbo as well and 250rwkw or more.

i wouldn't go gtr injectors though. i though r33 had 370cc standard. gtrs are only 440cc, thats not much of an increase. power fc would be able to handle bigger injectors and tune them down plus when you do more upgrades in the future you would already have the injectors to handle it. 550cc, 700cc even.

Alrighht well for now the shopping list looks like this...

Power fc.

fmic.

fuel pump

Spark plugs

gtr injectors

Is this a good combo? am i missing anything vital? and what sort of power should i expect.....

the cars mods would list the above plus turbo back exhaust, filter +cold air box and boost set to 10psi.....

APEXi Power FC

Injectors

Turbo (HKS XXXX)

Fuel pump (fuel pump)

FMIC kit

Clutch kit (EXEDY)

240rwkw - 260rwkw for a safe tune depending on turbo.

Edited by abu

You will need to buy some Spiltfire Coilpacks. After turning the boost up your coilpacks wont last for long. The standard coilpacks wont be able to handle the spark, a set of Splitfires are $550 from SAU :D

Your Shopping list looks great so far!

Power fc.

fmic.

fuel pump

Spark plugs

gtr injectors

Splitfire Coilpacks* :D

You will need to buy some Spiltfire Coilpacks. After turning the boost up your coilpacks wont last for long. The standard coilpacks wont be able to handle the spark, a set of Splitfires are $550 from SAU :D

Your Shopping list looks great so far!

Power fc.

fmic.

fuel pump

Spark plugs

gtr injectors

Splitfire Coilpacks* :D

Na man, after market coil packs wont be needed till they give in.

If it runs fine on standard coilpacks just leave them.

Plenty of people running that sort of power on standard coil packs.

Edited by abu

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...