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Ok im building up a car from shell up and i have a rb25de which has been turboed from my old car, now im thinking whilst its out and im fixing up the shell i may as well spend a little money and re-build the engine, now the labour isn't going to cost me anything cause i work at a mechanics and one of the guys is going to help me but i just want to comfim i have everything im going to need.

Gtr pistons with rings

Gtr Rods

Gtr crank

Gtr crank bolt and washer

Crank seal

Rear main seal

Vrs kit

Timing belt with tentioners

Is there anything else i've left off??

i know lots of people say just get forgies but im quite certain i can get all the parts i need for less than $1500 and with no labour cost i think thats a resnoably good idea insted of selling it and buying a det spec engine for my shell.

Ask yourself "what use am I going to put the car to, and how much power/stress/revs does the engine have to deal with? And how frequently is it going to do it?"

What you will need to do then becomes much clearer.

Why go the crank/rods/pistons from a 26DETT if all you really (maybe??) need is slightly lower CR to reliably push in a bit more boost? As above it really depends what you are going to need.

Lower CR could be achieved with 25DET spec pistons, forged or cast it's your choice. And you could retain the 25DE crank and rods.

Alternatively you could run a water injection setup on the 25DE - search 300rwkW thread by The Mafia for some discussion on its benefits.

One thing to note is that the 25DET short engine runs oil squirters under the pistons. Factory engineers put them there for a good reason. I don't believe the 25DE engine does, so there is a limitation.

If you're in the trade, maybe you should consider head bolts, bearings for mains and big ends, and quality head gasket too? The top end oiling restrictor mod might be worth considering just to finish off.

Keep us posted on your progress. :laugh:

Hey Jarrod,

For that price you can

find yourself a $1500 short motor

RB25DET. Im not sure the DE oil

pump is up to scratch for turbo use.

Or decomp to approx 9:1 and get yourself

a set of bearings, vrs kit with correct headgasket thickness

for lowering your compression,arp rod-bolts, NI oil pump and chromoly rings.

That should support up to 300rwkw.

Cheers,

Bill

( :) K-frame, mounts etc.) :laughing-smiley-014:

hey nabil im not looking at getting anywhere near 300 trying to chase something like 200-250, i've got about 170 atm n i think i'd be more than happy at about that power increase.

Yeh de-comping it to around 9:1 would be great as it would keep the nice bottom end range, so you think i'd be better off just getting a thicker headgasket some bearings and rings ect how much do you think that will set me back??

ps i pmed you about the k-frame lol i had a little issue i everything apart on my car and took it out then had another look at it and realised that it was completly different to the one that was on your old shell and i ran outa time taking the one off you shell.

hey nabil im not looking at getting anywhere near 300 trying to chase something like 200-250, i've got about 170 atm n i think i'd be more than happy at about that power increase.

Yeh de-comping it to around 9:1 would be great as it would keep the nice bottom end range, so you think i'd be better off just getting a thicker headgasket some bearings and rings ect how much do you think that will set me back??

ps i pmed you about the k-frame lol i had a little issue i everything apart on my car and took it out then had another look at it and realised that it was completly different to the one that was on your old shell and i ran outa time taking the one off you shell.

Get the bearings from a bearing wholesaler: main and conrod approx - 140 (clevite/king/ACL)

piston rings - $120

bore/hone & acid dip block - $230

Head clean up - $80

Machinist can also get all your rings/bearings and specific h.gasket.

Cheers,

Bill

Edited by Nabil

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