Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Highmount, you'd be looking at a GT35 frame, or something around the 650/700hp mark basically.

Thats for singles obviously, and if ya still wanna head that route, it'll by far be the cheapest/easiest as twins is a mission.

Twins would just be the usual HKS2530 or similar across any manufacturer.

So manifolds, dumps, oil/water lines, piping of both cooler/intake and so on all need to be made, which is the catch as there is no kit for them i dont think.

Just need to fabricate literally everything to suit the high mount really as there is only high-mount kits for MUCH larger turbos like 2835/TD06 etc. Which really is useless for a streeter.

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

been looking around and yeah think i will just got for twin lows, and also looking to find a GTR with this power :(

i could just have a unuiqe GTS-t or just a powerful GTR. i was thinking of getting a gtr and using the GTS-t as a runabout

been looking around and yeah think i will just got for twin lows, and also looking to find a GTR with this power :(

i could just have a unuiqe GTS-t or just a powerful GTR. i was thinking of getting a gtr and using the GTS-t as a runabout

Nothing overly unique about a 26 in a Gtst bro, its still a twincam RB motor, to the average joe it aint gonna mean shit, trust me, save yourself the drama and just get a GTR and start from that.

OK..now you are getting there.

Now this is what I may do soon.

My Nephews motor has shit itself in his GTR32..like most of them do(this one has a melted piston).

Buy his car with the busted motor..already has N1's Group A turbo's

Great set of rims/suspension and FMIC with pod filters already attached.(all after-market)

A re-build..with forged internals/new pump/collar/PFC maybe throw in some cams..if the money allows.

A quick touch up to some skirts etc..and polish......Drive the GTR

13K for car..10K for re-build ..23K all up

What I would not do....lol

Put a RB26 in a Gtst..no 4 wheel drive,need lots of mods to get it to fit and work...diff,gear/box/etc etc..a nightmare.

Brake upgrade/Rims.OMG the list is huge.

But hey its your money so do as you please...

8K for car..25K for motor/gear/box/clutch/turbo's/PFC/ etc etc etc

33K.

Now I go to sell my GTR32..I get 22K...you go to sell your gtst..you get 12K

Add it up now..10K(You spent more than me)..plus the resale value..another 10K

You have lost 20K and I lost only 1K.

i am thinking of getting a GTR now cause of better handling car for the power

Its funny how the costs and your losses may change :D your mind in being different. ;)

It is all good though..at least you asked the question...and then questioned your thoughts.

18K for a gtr32.....make sure you get it looked at...or Buy my Nephews one...and you know you have to fix the motor.

Good luck

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...