Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey every1,

omg i cant believe it, i am blowing smoke... smells oilly!!!

more on tick over or crawling... and on standstill when u give it a REV...

its never done it b4

got my car boosted 'with manual controller' and dyno'd @ streetforce... i said i only wanted 10PSI

but the bugger tired for more when i got cash out!!! n said that didnt make much more power @ 14psi

i mean then he turned it down to 10ish!!

DAM!! what is gone? how can i look for wat it is? would i be valves guides? turbo? piston rings? :)

i am so angry now at him for that!!

HELP ME PLZ

GARY

Edited by Mr_GaZZa

undo some of your cooler pipework and look for oil in the pipes

if you see a bit, wipe it away then run the car again

if it comes back quickly then youve probably shagged the turbo oil seal

or it could be leaking on the exhaust side, which is whats making it smoke, as you have raw oil leaking into the exhaust housing

undo some of your cooler pipework and look for oil in the pipes

if you see a bit, wipe it away then run the car again

if it comes back quickly then youve probably shagged the turbo oil seal

or it could be leaking on the exhaust side, which is whats making it smoke, as you have raw oil leaking into the exhaust housing

:unsure: yeah i took one pipe of b4 it goes into the intercooler... looked coated in oilly stuff :P so gave it a clean.. going to install n start up again!

if its the rear , just remove the frontpipe n look?

:unsure: yeah i took one pipe of b4 it goes into the intercooler... looked coated in oilly stuff :P so gave it a clean.. going to install n start up again!

if its the rear , just remove the frontpipe n look?

if your referring to the exhaust side youll need to drop the exhaust off at the dump pipe / front pipe area and look from there

its natural for some trace amounts of oil to be there (visual) but it shouldnt be dripping / fresh

if your referring to the exhaust side youll need to drop the exhaust off at the dump pipe / front pipe area and look from there

its natural for some trace amounts of oil to be there (visual) but it shouldnt be dripping / fresh

:P

okay working on that bit now!!

um... what / where can i find my PCV ... heard other ppl mention that with this issue... maybe mine needed a replacement.. awhile bk i had idle problems n kinda fixed it self

with lil adjustments to the idle screw!!!

also only other problem i had was WRX sound randomly... but only in winter /dampness ... once a week at most... maybe they where signs =(

hasnt done that for 2months but

omg :unsure:

sounds like broken pistons.

NO NO!!! aint lost no performance, no heat gains, no real oil usage or any WIERD noises

i thinks its the rear turbo seals

=(

any1 else got any ideas??

BTW cars nearrly done 160 ### km

GaZ

PCV = positive crankcase ventillation..... and where u find it im not sure...i havent had a look on my car, haha... but it is usually on the top of your tappet cover, with a pipe running from it back into your intake.

hey all :laugh:

been working / finding out stuff all day about my car!!

only smokes when hot, and only after its sitting ther n u give it a rev u get a lil puff...

it doesnt smoke when or acceleration or de/ acceleration and doesnt smoke when cold!

performance is same, oil pressure remains to its normal pressures i see and engines temps are well under half way !!!

me thinks it REAR turbine oil seal =(

LF new turbo / or place in Perth to rebuild it....

Gaz

P.S thanks every1 for ur input

Edited by Mr_GaZZa

sounds like pistons to me, i had this problem too, same colour smoke ect. still had good performance, but blowing heaps of smoke and using up my oil. took it to my tuner he tells me its pistons.. pulled the engine to bits and all 6 ringlands were f**ked :laugh:

sorry, probably not what u want to hear, but before you get the turbo rebuilt get a leak down/compression test done

Yeah, there is a way too find out which one it is

while doing a compression test.

I'm not too sure how to do it!

But i think it's were you put oil on top of the cylinder

and then when you do the compression test,

if it goes higher its your stem seals or if it stays the same

it's your rings.

Not too sure though so if someone could correct that will be good.

noooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!

:laugh: RAWR

i hope its just something cheap/ easy to fix

omg BS >< if it was pistons wuldnt u be burning oil.. n wuldnt it be worse @ cold start :S

and i dont get no smoke while cruising... n stuff all or if any when pulling away **looks in mirrors**

also took off oil cap, no signs of back pressuse or spitting, just a slit change in idle...

=(

thanks guys.... i'll keep my options open, until i go to a few yards n mates @ tuning shops / nissan n see wat they

say 2

thanks ;)

BTW compression test will be done this w/e coming

Edited by Mr_GaZZa

Yeah, with my one there was no smoke or anything blowing out

while driving or anything like that, just sometimes blue smoke on idle!

Check your dipstick after you for a drive and see what it reads hehe

thats right.. if u put in oil and do the compression test it should help verify wether its valve guides, stem seals etc

just becareful wat shops u go man same thing used to happen in my other car, not a nissan but under load/boost it used to puff a blue smoke.. and sometimes on vaccum once cruising car slowing itself down from 80,60 it used to blow alot of blue

went to tonnes of workshops they said needs a rebuild, some said rings r going, some said valve stem seals or valve guides..compression tests came up fine. opened it up myself it was only a manifold gasket cracked,

even when i used to rev it at neutral up to 3 grand for 10 seconds then backoff it started to blow the blue.

sometimes its not as bad as it sounds.. get compression test first, start ur way from the bottom and go up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually everyone on the roads was really well behaved. The only person that did any minor tailgating was a local hoon in a Turbo Focus. Unfortunately we weren't going the same way so there was no grand initial D touge battle. Lots of people pulled over and let me through. The amount of "Hey man nice car, omg skyline, nice 34 man woo" was suprising. Like really suprising. Like almost annoying. My partner was obviously surprised, she'd never seen anyone in the real world point out the car/like the car/want to chat about the car before, so to have like 3 people per day mention it was notable, I could finally say SEE? SOMEONE THINKS THEY'RE COOL. Everyone was also pretty suprised about the weather. Every day was dry and about ~13-14C. Mount Wellington had a sign that said they close the gates at 9pm and I was heading up there at about ~7:30. It was VERY apparent that conditions were getting significantly worse by the minute on the way up and down. The road on the mountain was terrible though, it's no driving road. I have various suspension related questions now. Luckily it was only about 20 minutes from where we were staying to the top of the mountain as said Google maps. We only had the 2 nights in Hobart. We went to the Farm Gate Market though which was really good - And went down to the Hastings Thermal springs/caves down there during the day. I'd definitely be up for going back again, so luckily there's a few more sights yet to see. Didn't get to do the west coast/queenstown/cradle mountain so this was supposed to be a 'scouting' trip anyway of sorts if I were to one day do/take part in/organize a more car-focused trip. As for the boat, it wasn't bad. Well it was bad, but not in the way you're thinking. We did the night trip which leaves at 6:45 (though you have to be there ~2 hours earlier) and arrives the next morning at about 6am. There is nothing to do on the ship. If you plan accordingly and bring a book/tablet/show to watch/charger you can just chill out, take some Travacalm and just sleep through it. The food there is an extremely basic buffet that costs $32 a plate, or $14 for a $3 pizza. The way back we had a travel kettle and a few different types of cup noodles and made our own tea/coffee in the room. This was a far superior way to do it. At the very least book one of the rooms with beds. I guess as we were in the off season we didn't have room mates. You get an option for rooms with 4 beds (2x bunks) or a room with just the two bottom beds. There's also some option for a deluxe queen bed but it's much pricer. We've been on sleeper trains in Asia before so we figured this is similar (and it was)
    • You just gotta be really, really, really clear and decisive with what you want your end product to be. 99% of people who want this conversion aren't "I want to run a 295 front tyre!" so they don't really need the widebody. They just want the OEM body to look a little less dumpy, so bonnet, bar, skirts job done with some camber, stretch, slam. It's when you want that, but then decide to pivot later you get big problems. See also if you're willing to get an all in one fibreglass bar, and you're willing to accept fibreglass problems like cracking the entire item on a driveway, instead of just a piece attached to the bottom, etc etc etc. Decide this all before buyin'.
    • After @Kinkstaah debacle, I'd never want to try and get it right 😛
    • The hood lines up with the fenders. The front bar doesn't perfectly line up with the fenders where the wheel arch is. You have to 'squeeze' the front bar 'in' as it wants to naturally flare out and be longer on the sides. There's a few threads where people notice this when they only swap a GTR style bumper and front bar. Unless you have genuine OEM items - you may be better served getting conversion kits. There are GTT bumpers to fit GTR hoods. There are GTR hoods (non genuine) to fit the GTT bracketry. MAY  
×
×
  • Create New...