Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine / Gearbox Mounts With Big Power

sky30
 Share

Recommended Posts

sky30 Mentor

sky30

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just after some help on engine/gearbox mounts in my R32 GTS4, I find when under power the engine/ gearbox moves alot, which makes it hard to select gears when you change.

Are any other people having or had trouble like this?

What engine/gearbox mounts are other people using in their high powered cars, and does it fix the problem?

Edited by sky30
sky30 Mentor

sky30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just after some help on engine/gearbox mounts In my R32 GTS4, I find when under power the engine/ gearbox moves alot, which makes it hard to select gears when you change.

Are any other people having or had trouble like this?

What engine/gearbox mounts are other people using in their high powered cars, and does it fix the problem?

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted
Just after some help on engine/gearbox mounts in my R32 GTS4, I find when under power the engine/ gearbox moves alot, which makes it hard to select gears when you change.

Are any other people having or had trouble like this?

What engine/gearbox mounts are other people using in their high powered cars, and does it fix the problem?

I changed to NISMO mounts all around.

What you have to remember is the stock ones in there (assuming they haven't been changed before) are now 15+ years old and have seen a fair bit of action in that time.

Buy new ones, put them in and notice the difference, you wont be disappointed :P

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted
I guess a lot of people would be using Nismo.

Maybe you could get an engine damper. Even if it doesnt work well, its bling for the bay :ninja:

Damper's dont do dick other than take up space under the bonnet.

Get the new mounts and your problem will be solved :P

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

I went stock everyhing with my 370rwkw. Seemed ok to me even under full song @ the drags when i was full power.

Pulled it all out as part of the 26 conversion and all was well. No wear at all after some harsh km's.

Given though i had a stock crossmember that was modified to accomodate the RB25 box (as opposed to RB20 box which mounts differently).

So possibly the change that incorporated a better fit possibly?

I also had brand new diff mounts/cradle bushes aswell as i did have issues previously with things moving around a little.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Andrew,

Are you sure you haven't busted an engine mount?

When I dropped the RB30DET in I replaced mine with new ones from Nissan. 50,000km's later I busted the passenger side engine mount. :P

I believe it was most likely related to axle tramp. Subframe bushes sorted that.

No doubt with the GTS4 + Rb30 and near 400rwkw you will need something better. I guess you could try nismo failing that I don't know.

See if its possible to have some urethane's made up if not umm solids :S

PT Community Regular

PT

Posted
Posted

had a poly g'box mount noticeably louder and more vibration in cabin compared to the nismo engine and box mounts I later changed to

g'box mount is easy to change with jack and stands, the engine mounts were a pain and that was with a hoist

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted (edited)

we made up some solid ally engine mounts and we welded up the std gearbox mount. At 370rwkws the std engine mounts seemed fine, one race meeting at 400rwkws and we broke the p.s mount. So i figured we would need something remarkably stronger for over 450rwkws.

Best thing i noticed about the gearbox mount being solid was how easy it was to change gears. With the dog box, i found during one race i would crunch atleast 1 gearchange, after the mount change i didnt crunch any.

haha solid mounts in a race car you cant even hear the extra noise from vibrations lol.

Edited by r33_racer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Duncan
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...