Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Series 2 Vs. R24 Neo

pricer-1

By pricer-1,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

pricer-1 Rookie

pricer-1

Posted
Posted

So I have been looking into a RB swap for my S13 and I think I want to go with the R34 Neo but I have a few questions about differences between the Neo and Series 2 engines. When it comes to upgrades or even just OEM parts will the parts for a Series 2 motor work on a Neo? Physically what are the differences? Also what parts should I consider replacing before installing the engine into my S13?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185780-r33-series-2-vs-r24-neo/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

bugger all difference apart from the head setup, slight power increase due to a minor turbo change in the rear housing.

other than that, nothing. You would be hard pressed to notice the 10/15kw (not @ the wheels) increase as it was marginal

pricer-1 Rookie

pricer-1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
POSTING IN THE RIGHT SECTION MIGHT HELP TOO!

heard of nissansilvia.com?

Yeah actually I have, but I am not asking you about how to swap one into a Silvia but the differences between the two engines. Which has nothing to do with my car JACKA**!

Matty T Collaborator

Matty T

Posted
Posted
POSTING IN THE RIGHT SECTION MIGHT HELP TOO!

I believe m'learned friend was referring to the fact that you posted this question in the "Classic Skylines" forum, rather than the Forced Induction Performance one. So what part of your question has anything to do with Classic Skylines? Let's see:

S13 Silvia - NO

R34 NEO - NO

R33 Series 2 - NO

Which has nothing to do with my car JACKA**!

I think you summed it up nicely.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Should have been in FI but to give closure .

Neo RB25DET IMO has advantages in its non hydraulic buckets , it allows you to use aftermarket cams with bias towards performance rather than just surviving with hydraulic buckets . Also the CAS is a more accurate thing though may not be an issue for you .

Younger engine so less used up .

Cheers A .

To go any further this thread should be transfered to FI .

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...