Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes just go try it there take a socket with you... will only take 10mins max to change it

they will gladly take it back if it isn't a good fit

i dont know why it touched my crossover pipe... maybe i have something funky going on with my engine height ???

they touched my crossover pipe so i returned it, tried another one and the same thing

the actual pipe or the clamps on the pipe? u may have to move the clamps around on the piping as they usually come pretty close.

theres really not much to strut braces really, as long as they fit they will do the job. its metal holding the 2 strut towers, not much that can go wrong really.

yeah they do f**k all anyway. unless they are weled and made from 50x50 steel.
yes. they look cool. :D

Are you saying there's no point in fitting a strut tower brace? That they do nothing to help improve handling?

I'm not trying to be a jerk, serious question. I'm just wanting to know your reasons.

When I fitted mine, it made quite a noticeable difference to handling. I'm sure others would say the same.

Edited by KeyMaker

I'm gonna get a strut brace too, JustJap sounds like a good choice for the price. Yeh, for what it does there's not much point spending double or more on a hectic brand.

I have an engine damper- its bracket is bolted onto the right strut, when i put my strut brace over it will it cause problems because it's a few mm higher on that side?

I'm gonna get a strut brace too, JustJap sounds like a good choice for the price. Yeh, for what it does there's not much point spending double or more on a hectic brand.

I have an engine damper- its bracket is bolted onto the right strut, when i put my strut brace over it will it cause problems because it's a few mm higher on that side?

Nah it'll be right aye.

I'm gonna get a strut brace too, JustJap sounds like a good choice for the price. Yeh, for what it does there's not much point spending double or more on a hectic brand.

I have an engine damper- its bracket is bolted onto the right strut, when i put my strut brace over it will it cause problems because it's a few mm higher on that side?

as long as the thread is long enough, i would bolt the engine dampner on top of the strut brac mount rather than underneath

lol

strut brace do f**k all! even 3 point ones like my tomei , dont do much at all

image006rd3.jpg

I beg too differ.

The usual strut brace design links (RHS to LHS) the top suspension mounting points and effectively doubles the rigidity of them. By reducing the flex, this stops changes in the suspension geometry, mostly camber. The springs and stabiliser bars work exactly as they did before, so there is no reduction in roll. The improved in handling comes from helping to maintain the static wheel elignment settings when the suspension is moving and the chassis flexing.

On R32/33/34 Skylines (2 door & 4 door) and equivalent Stageas, the front strut brace actually serves to effectively link the upper control arm inner mounting points to each other (RHS to LHS). This is because the upper corntol arms are actually mounted to the inner guard (chassis). You can see this by simply looking through the front wheel arches. So a front strut brace does serve quite a usefull purpose in helping to control the suspension geometry.

On the rear (of these models) this is simply not the case, the upper control arm inner mounting mounts are mounted to the sub frame, not the chassis. Adding a rear strut brace to the chassis between the rear shock towers, doesn't help the rigidity of the sub frame. You can also confirm this for yourself by loooking through the rear wheel arch and examining the upper control arm mounting points. Then compare this to where the strut brace actually mounts. Therefore the effect of fitting a strut brace to the rear is much, much less than the front.

:) cheers :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...