Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

Just fitting up my new GCG bolt on turbo and I am at the stage of cranking the engine to check there is oil coming out of the drain.

I have filled up with over 4L of oil and disconnected the CAS and have cranked for about 3 lots of 5 seconds each and there is not really much oil coming out of the drain (maybe not any!).

The manifold appears to be wet with either oil or fuel running down probably originating from the turbo.

I have a new gasket and torqued up the nuts turbo to manifold.

The only thing I can think of is that I torqued up the top oil and water lines first before these nuts. I didnt think this would interfere with getting the right torque on the turbo nuts and clamping the gasket.

So I have 2 seperate issues:

1. No oil coming out of the drain

2. Appears to be fluid running down from turbo on the underside of manifold.

Anyone else had these issues?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187306-fitting-new-turbo-problems/
Share on other sites

ive had a closer look it may have been there before from product that the stud remover bloke used.

Main problem - NO oil to turbo

I have taken the oil inlet banjo off and when I crank the engine there is no oil coming out. This is with the CAS disconnected. Maybe there isn't enough pressure built to get oil to the turbo? Anyone triied this?

GCG recomend to check there is oil cooming fro the drain by cranking the engine but not staring it. However the oil inlet to turbo is quite high so some pressure would ben needed to get it up there

Edited by benl1981
Also - does anyone see a problem with bolting up the oil and water inlet first then tightening the turbo to manifold nuts?

This will not cause a problem at all.

Give the engine a longer crank. you will not build much pressure doing 5 second bursts, and like you said the oil feed for the turbo is up fairly high. It'll take a good 30 second crank to get the factory low pressure light off.

personally, id unhook the oil return and put in into a bucket and then start the engine, give it 10 seconds and then switch it off. then go check the bucket. You didn't have oil issues before, whats changed now to make you think you have some?

thanks bhdave - So you think my gasket should still have the orect pressure on it? I was going to undo the bangos then tighten the manifold nuts p first but its a bit of a hassle since the tabs have already been knocked back etc.

Will try a longer crank

Thanks- yeah no issues before with oil supply :P

PS - anyone know which fuse does the injetors or fuel pump - so i dont have to be cranking fuel fo that time

Edited by benl1981

Don't know about injector fuse, but you can unplug the connector at the back/top of the block, which you usually unplug when changing sparkies.

Fuel Pump one is in the boot i think, near the battery? Check the Fuel Pump DIY threads, might be in one of those somewhere.

As long as you are 100% positive the banjo bolts are pointing in the right direction then how can you stuff it up? I just bolted it all back together and started it. I was super careful about the banjo bolts though. I hope you used new copper washers.

Been busy on the weekend. Got oil out the drain so all is good. Just got to bolt up exhaust and test.

Then do the injectors and tune :rolleyes:

Wanted to do one step at a time so I can identify cause of problem if any. Very slow process!! mainly all due to turbo issues.

Will test it tonight to see that the turbo runs ok and no surge..better not or ill spew!

Turbo is all on. Runs well - no surge.

No leaks or anything - the only thing is as soon as you shut off the car and put your head near the turbo you can hear sort of air or water moving. Can anybody else hear this. I didnt notice with the last turbo but I may not have paid that much attention.

From 4000-7000rpm is really strong. I'm only running about 9psi though. Slightly laggier but not much. Might be good for traction as it doen't seem to snap on boost quite as sharply as stock turbo. Running without a tune so really rich. Maybe with some tuning and more boost it will be good :laugh:

hope the clutch holds up :woot:. Yeah Ill do the injectors soon.

Also got the new fuel pump to go in (GTR). Hope it's quieter than the one in there. For some reason my car doesnt seem to have the dual stage - so at idle it isn't any quieter that when the revs go up. All the wiring looks stock though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
    • Murphy strikes again! Nothing at all would have gone wrong if you had the tool kit in the car! You'd have just found the clamp loose the next time you went to touch it...
    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
×
×
  • Create New...