Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

Just fitting up my new GCG bolt on turbo and I am at the stage of cranking the engine to check there is oil coming out of the drain.

I have filled up with over 4L of oil and disconnected the CAS and have cranked for about 3 lots of 5 seconds each and there is not really much oil coming out of the drain (maybe not any!).

The manifold appears to be wet with either oil or fuel running down probably originating from the turbo.

I have a new gasket and torqued up the nuts turbo to manifold.

The only thing I can think of is that I torqued up the top oil and water lines first before these nuts. I didnt think this would interfere with getting the right torque on the turbo nuts and clamping the gasket.

So I have 2 seperate issues:

1. No oil coming out of the drain

2. Appears to be fluid running down from turbo on the underside of manifold.

Anyone else had these issues?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187306-fitting-new-turbo-problems/
Share on other sites

ive had a closer look it may have been there before from product that the stud remover bloke used.

Main problem - NO oil to turbo

I have taken the oil inlet banjo off and when I crank the engine there is no oil coming out. This is with the CAS disconnected. Maybe there isn't enough pressure built to get oil to the turbo? Anyone triied this?

GCG recomend to check there is oil cooming fro the drain by cranking the engine but not staring it. However the oil inlet to turbo is quite high so some pressure would ben needed to get it up there

Edited by benl1981
Also - does anyone see a problem with bolting up the oil and water inlet first then tightening the turbo to manifold nuts?

This will not cause a problem at all.

Give the engine a longer crank. you will not build much pressure doing 5 second bursts, and like you said the oil feed for the turbo is up fairly high. It'll take a good 30 second crank to get the factory low pressure light off.

personally, id unhook the oil return and put in into a bucket and then start the engine, give it 10 seconds and then switch it off. then go check the bucket. You didn't have oil issues before, whats changed now to make you think you have some?

thanks bhdave - So you think my gasket should still have the orect pressure on it? I was going to undo the bangos then tighten the manifold nuts p first but its a bit of a hassle since the tabs have already been knocked back etc.

Will try a longer crank

Thanks- yeah no issues before with oil supply :P

PS - anyone know which fuse does the injetors or fuel pump - so i dont have to be cranking fuel fo that time

Edited by benl1981

Don't know about injector fuse, but you can unplug the connector at the back/top of the block, which you usually unplug when changing sparkies.

Fuel Pump one is in the boot i think, near the battery? Check the Fuel Pump DIY threads, might be in one of those somewhere.

As long as you are 100% positive the banjo bolts are pointing in the right direction then how can you stuff it up? I just bolted it all back together and started it. I was super careful about the banjo bolts though. I hope you used new copper washers.

Been busy on the weekend. Got oil out the drain so all is good. Just got to bolt up exhaust and test.

Then do the injectors and tune :rolleyes:

Wanted to do one step at a time so I can identify cause of problem if any. Very slow process!! mainly all due to turbo issues.

Will test it tonight to see that the turbo runs ok and no surge..better not or ill spew!

Turbo is all on. Runs well - no surge.

No leaks or anything - the only thing is as soon as you shut off the car and put your head near the turbo you can hear sort of air or water moving. Can anybody else hear this. I didnt notice with the last turbo but I may not have paid that much attention.

From 4000-7000rpm is really strong. I'm only running about 9psi though. Slightly laggier but not much. Might be good for traction as it doen't seem to snap on boost quite as sharply as stock turbo. Running without a tune so really rich. Maybe with some tuning and more boost it will be good :laugh:

hope the clutch holds up :woot:. Yeah Ill do the injectors soon.

Also got the new fuel pump to go in (GTR). Hope it's quieter than the one in there. For some reason my car doesnt seem to have the dual stage - so at idle it isn't any quieter that when the revs go up. All the wiring looks stock though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...